One of my Smart Plugs as stopped working. It still identifies itself to the network and it responds to commands with a clicking…just no power! Any ideas?
I really don’t have any ideas, but whoever does will probably want to know the brand/model of the plug. Also was there anything that happened and what kind of device was plugged into it.
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Good point. It is a “Samsung SmartThings Power Outlet”. On the bottom it says "CentralLite Systems, Inc. 3200-Sgb. The fuse is not blown. It is a spare so I really don’t remember what it was used for in total. A lamp and a 3D printer come to mind.
There’s a relay inside that clicks when when turning on. If it’s still under warranty, replace it. If not and you feel comfortable, open it and see if you can replace the relay yourself (involves buying relay, desolder and solder new one).
Relays have a mechanical lifetime duration so after a number (high) of open/close spring inside weakens and functionality is affected. Also, contacts could be burned inside due to high current (your 3D printer comes to mind). Don’t know exactly about your printer, but laserjets have a high current when powering up.
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Daniel makes a very good point. That particular pocket socket is only spec’d to 12 A. In the US, most regular in wall receptacles are spec’d to 15 A. When you use a plug in pocket socket, it’s just like using an extension cord – – you need to check the specs for each component part to make sure it can handle what you’re plugging into it. So my guess would also be that the printer draw burned out the pocket socket. 
That’s exactly what NEC specs out. You’re supposed to only use 80% of rated current for wires, outlets, etc.
15A x 80%=12A
That’s where the 12A comes from. It’s not that they derated the plug, they just built it like NEC says.
However, if you consider it a controlled outlet, it should have been rated for the full 15A.
Just the relay contact. Relay is replaceable with some effort and skills. Don’t know if it’s worth doing it.
Thanks for the clarification, yes, that’s what I meant. A plug-in module is not exactly the same as a controlled outlet, although a lot of people assume it will be.
If the relay clicks, it is probably a bad solder or burned trace on the high power side of the relay. It is defective.
Hmmm. Into the bin with the plug! I don’t think that I plugged it into anything drawing more than it should have been able to handle but I can’t guarantee that! Thanks for the help all.
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Don’t bin it yet!
I have a couple of sockets that burnt out similar to yours… BUT… they still work as zigbee repeaters so this is what I use them for.
(And if it is a UK smartthings plug, the only thing I WOULD use them for)
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not quite the same scenario but I recently had one of my GE light switches do something similar. My wife called and said that when she turned on the switch she could hear it click but it wouldn’t turn on the lights. Then she said she tried with Alexa but it would just click but no lights. I had her pull the air gap and push it back in and for whatever reason it started working again both via hardware and software.
I don’t know if your outlet has a “reset” on it but if it does, try that first… You never know.
No air gap on a plug-in module. You can certainly try resetting it, but given that the relay does operate from the app it’s just the power’s not provided it’s unlikely that it’s the same issue.
There’s a long-standing issue with GE switches where they will lose the ability to hear Z wave network commands (usually after the end of the warranty period). Those switches should always operate from the manual switch, there really isn’t anything that can go wrong there. But they would no longer work from the app or an automation. That’s the bug where using the airgap to completely reset the switch (or throwing power at the circuit breaker) may help.
Internally, though, a plug-in module like the OP’s pocket socket which will operate the relay from the app but not provide power is more commonly either a burned out component or an overload protection kicking in. And that’s almost always a mechanical fault in the device itself, not a messaging issue like the GE switch can get.
So it may well be worth trying to reset, but if it works, it will likely be for a different reason than why the reset worked on the GE switch. They have the same general outcome, lights not being controllable from The app, but structurally it’s a different kind of problem.
That is what was so odd with my switch. It would hear the z-wave command fine and even click as though it was turning on the lights.
Even more strange was that when my wife tried to manually turn on the lights, it also clicked but would NOT turn on the lights then either.
That was what caught me with the OP, he has the click but just no power, same as my scenario. We had click from both physical and app/automation as though the switch was working as normal, just no power being sent to the light fixture.
I was convinced it was hardware related and that the air gap would do no good since it was still receiving commands…
Andy:
What is wrong with the plug and what would you use instead?
Thanks, Will
Cobra Andy - Living in the ‘soon to be free’ United Kingdom Regular
January 15 |
Don’t bin it yet!
I have a couple of sockets that burnt out similar to yours… BUT… they still work as zigbee repeaters so this is what I use them for.
(And if it is a UK smartthings plug, the only thing I WOULD use them for)
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In Reply To
Will_Kostelecky
January 15 |
Hmmm. Into the bin with the plug! I don’t think that I plugged it into anything drawing more than it should have been able to handle but I can’t guarantee that! Thanks for the help all.
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Have a look here…
-Andy-
Does anyone have any idea how to open these? They appeared to be pretty much glued shut. Are the two slots anything to do with it or just cooling?
Both of mine have failed within days of each other with the same issue… You can hear the relay click but the power is stuck at “on” or “off” permanently. (Odd that it this can actually happen if you can hear the relay moving)
Your outlet is probably ok but the pins of your plug no longer make a successful contact with the internal grippers. Having waited for weeks for a replacement sensor in the past, I opened one of my sockets and squeezed the live and neutral grips to make them securely grab the plug pins.
Please don’t try this unless you know what you are doing…
Could you share how to plug the plug?
I am using UK version and seems similar issue
Are you asking how to open the plug? There are plastic catches on the sides, slide something thin in at the centre of both sides to unclip it.
Yes, how to open it, could you please share in photo?
Cheers
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