No, mine came the same way. I too looked for a while for documentation and found nothing. From what it looks like is when I plugged the batteries in the WiFI light would blink like it was in pairing mode. Another post I found elsewhere someone was told to hold the 2 and 8 button maybe, but that did not work for that person. Mine looks like it may be in pairing mode when I put the batteries in but if I ever need to reset it and unpair/re-pair it we would need to know how to do it.
It’s possible @mitchp may have some documentation that he may be able to share He was obviously able to pair it.
Most Zigbee devices I have seen have you remove the batteries hold a certain button and then put the batteries back in. This would reset the device to be unpaired and start it in pairing mode. I would assume this device would be the same.
Be careful buying the 3400 key panel on eBay. Centralite generally doesn’t sell its own vanilla devices, instead it sells them to companies That rebrand them and may make some modifications. They won’t necessarily all be compatible after the modifications are done.
I believe @mitchp said in another thread that the device type mentioned is for the Xfinity version.
There are other people who are going to look at the new Iris version from Lowe’s. If that one works with Mitch’s device type or with a new one, it will likely be the easiest one to find at retail.
The one we bought said “Zigbee Wireless Keypad (Xfinity / Comcast Home Security)”, now if that’s true or not who knows.
Mitch mentioned the 3400 right before we found out about the Lowes keypad, and me being impatient jumped on it Honestly I probably would have went with the Lowes brand if I was given a choice just over convenience to pick it up locally but I absolutely love the way the 3400 looks. Its alot bigger than I thought it would be.
The one I am working with is the Xfinity version. I didn’t see the keypad being sold at my Lowe’s, in a bundle or separately, so I can’t test it.
I was hoping to post at very least a solid, basic functionality device handler on Monday, but I spent a lot of time chasing my tail trying to fix something that turned out to be the IDE not functioning… If the IDE is functioning correctly after work, I’ll post some code.
It was in a white box with a mounting bracket, screws, the keypad and a little quick start guide. It wasn’t paired out of the box, but I did find instructions for resetting it on a Comcast site somewhere… Can’t seem to find it right now, but I may have it bookmarked at home. Might have been either hold tamper button while removing and replacing batteries, or press tamper button repeatedly after replacing batteries.
Sorry for the late reply but I just saw this comment.
You can have the device move into the correct mode when you return home you just need to set up the corresponding Away modes too. I have:
Away (Daytime)
Away (Evening)
Home (Daytime)
Home (Evening)
And I set up multiple routines:
The house moves from Away(Daytime) to Away(Evening) at sunset but only if mode is Away(Daytime)
The house moves from Home(Daytime) to Home(Evening) at sunset but only if mode is Home(Daytime)
The house moves from Away(Daytime) to Home(Daytime) on presence arrival but only if mode is Away(Daytime)
The house moves from Away(Evening) to Home(Evening) on presence arrival but only if mode is Away(Evening)
The house moves from Home(Daytime) to Away(Daytime) on presence leaving but only of mode is Home(Daytime)
The house moves from Home(Evening) to Away(Evening) on presence leaving but only of mode is Home(Evening)
The actions will also arm/disarm the system depending on mode and time, Setting up the routines is a little long winded but I’ve been running this way for several months now. I also have a Nighttime mode - when things quieten down or 1 in the morning - that changes to Daytime when things start happening or it’s 10 in the moning.
A time filter would be nice though - assuming it was sunset/sunrise aware.
@RLDreams and @mitchp, I contacted Centralite directly and they got back to me super fast. They sent me 2 different pdf’s with basically the same thing, the last one seems to have a little more info but have all the info we should need.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Step 1: Hardware Reset
Remove and replace batteries.
Step 2: Trigger Manual Rejoin
Remove the keypad from the wall and press the wall button 5 times.
Step 3: Factory Default
Remove batteries from keypad. Press and hold the wall button while reinstalling one battery. Once the keypad illuminates, release the wall button. Refer to the Getting Started section to rejoin the keypad.
I’m sorry if this has already been requested but this thread got big quick. I would like notifications added, text preferably, to tell me alarm status changes and preferably when people come home and leave. I’m using @geko alarm because there are no notifications in SHM.
Got a false alarm from a door contact early this morning while asleep. Maybe have an option to only send an alert if a door has been open or if motion is detected for more than ‘x’ seconds to combat these false alarms?
Please add a Carbon Monoxide section or the like, CO detectors aren’t even in the custom list, they should arguably have their own section like smoke and fire.
I went through the trouble of getting the Kiddie interconnects for both the smoke and CO, wired them to a couple of hacked monoprice contacts, hacked up a device for Smoke and another for CO, works perfect, but no place to include the CO in SHM…
This is exactly why I have always hated the often ‘go to’ solution on this forum of creating more modes. Modes are terrible for exactly that reason. I have my lights function differently during the day than at night. Instead of tying their behavior to a mode change, I simply use multiple instances of the Smart Lighting App to run on opposite schedules. Before the V2 hub, I did the same thing with Smart Rules, obycode’s App, but that doesn’t run locally on the new hub.
Smoke rules should work even when not in an armed state. One of my smoke detectors was triggered while cooking bacon yesterday, and the rule that should have triggered my alarm and notified me of danger was blissfully unaware due to SHM being disarmed.
I like the basic idea of this, but I do still want the state for maintenance or testing where everything is disarmed. So I would like to see the option to say “Smoke alarms and CO2 alarms only,” as well as the granularity of specifying individual alarms.
He was obviously able to pair it.
Honestly I probably would have went with the Lowes brand if I was given a choice just over convenience to pick it up locally but I absolutely love the way the 3400 looks. Its alot bigger than I thought it would be.
Go check it out!