@Lind_Lau_el_Loren@thepollara exactly.It would be nice if SmartThings would add the ability to switch the order of the tiles in the non detailed views in the app.
My reasoning behind putting temperature as the main tile was simply because motion is a transient event, lasting typicaly 20 seconds or less, while temp is something you probably want to glance and check and stays pretty stable. For instance I like to look and see how warm or cold it is in my baby’s room… Luckily it is easy to swap around on the code to make it happen.
That said. In my 2.0 device type I included a parameter for motion timeout. Originally, it was set to 4 minutes by the manufacturer. I made is short on request of the community’s feedback because that way it is more useful in a wider set of situations. Because it is a preference you can set it how you like.
app is pretty useless for monitoring anyway so don’t think its a big deal what its actually showing as default, smarttiles are much better for monitoring, also stuff like door sensors is rather to triger events then to look at it
I have noticed the sensitivity and range for the multisensor 6 is not that great. Is there a range difference between it being battery powered versus wired? Anyone with experience?
so battery vs wired shouldn’t matter. wired gives you constant communication and the ability to tweak preferences whenever you want without hitting the action button to wake up (hoepefully on time) the sensor. Range on Zwave totally depends on what’s in the way and how the devices join the network and how that mesh gets put together. I always join in my office next to the hub which is successful every time. Then I move it to where it needs to be and wake it up so the stuff around it “hears”. In reality, if you have it plugged in at its final destination, and then do a “zwave repair” you’ll have better success in general across the board. That forces the mesh network’s route to get rebuilt. it isn’t a problem with the sensor, just how zwave works. Zigbee is much less prone to these issues but then it is on 2.4 ghz which everything in the friggin world interferes with… For remote plugged in convenience, I would suggest one of those portable USB battery packs they sell for cell phones and tablets and the like. You can pick on up for like 10 bucks. It doesn’t need spectacular battery capacity, and the sensors don’t draw much. I use one for my arduino projects for sheer convenience.
Strong work Robert. So I installed my sensor according to your protocol and it went off without a hitch. I can’t see the humidity tile on the app but it is visible on the api page. I also changed the main tile for motion and saved and published but it won’t update. UV is on 0. Also what do you recommend for setting all the parameters? Thanks for all your help in advance.
That’s odd. Is that android? I added humidity an an attribute for the multi-attribute tile… the big one displaying temp. It works on iPhone. looks like I have more testing to do. I wonder if that’s a problem in general? I wonder if any multi attributes work in android. Again, I’ll have to test more. Thanks for the spot. In the meantime I’ll add it back into the details pane.
Also, posting ver 2.1 right now, which changes the tamper to acceleration by request so that you can use the sensor tamper / vibration feature in the home security portion of SmartThings. I initially used tamper because of how the value was reporting… I guess Smasung wants to use acceleration for that. Either way it works now.
Your work is a labor of love for the community. I opened ST on my iPad and voila …multI tile lists relative humidity in the lower left. Does not show up on my android Note 4 or Nexus 10. Maybe it is a function of Android vs IOS.
I like the idea of combining the environmental displays into a single tile but if you can’t remove the tile remnant in the process it might be best to forgo that implementation.
I just sent this email to support for help with these sensors on my network. If anyone can parse this and give me some idea of whats going on I would really appreciate it.
Greetings. Last week on Thursday one of my 4 Aeotec Multisensor 6 sensors was placed in an inactive state during the night. I removed the device from the network but upon attempting to re-add it I found the device would no longer communicate properly with the network. Thinking the device itself was the issue I ordered a replacement from the retailer. This second unit is experiencing the same symptoms as the first and I am now under the impression that the underlying network is the problem.
The symptoms are as such:
When trying to add as a secure device on USB power, I will follow the instructions on adding through the Smartthings app as a secure device (enter inclusion mode and double press the action button on the unit). I cannot enter any configuration commands in app itself. If I open the IDE I cannot update and I receive the following error:
Oh No! Something Went Wrong!
Error 500: Internal Server Error
URI/device/update
Reference Id 226d5f1f-ab9c-4ef8-8ef4-fa43273079a8
Date Thu Nov 12 22:42:03 UTC 2015
At this point the device sends no updates to the network and all the sensors are essentially stuck open. Since it sends no updates it is unusable for any purpose.
If I join the device as an unsecure device I can edit the configuration in the app in in the IDE but it still sends no updates. If I add the device on battery power the indicator LED will change from solid blue to a flashing amber for a period of time and then back to solid blue, then back again, and then back again.
I would test the general device with my other sensors but I’m afraid to take any of them offline for fear they will not re-connect an I will lose all funcitonality. I have not tried to add or remove any other devices since I have had this issue. I have run multiple Zwave network repairs and have tried updating the hub but nothing seems to be working. As I mentioned I have three more of these devices functioning with no issues and the fact that the first failure was because the device was placed in an inactive state makes me very concerned that other devices will be taken offline or removed from the network and will be able to be re-added and my investment will have been wasted.
I am anxious to have this problem resolved so if there is any further information you require from me to expedite the troubleshooting process please let me know. Thanks!
sorry you guys I uploaded the wrong one to github. It’s fixed now. I had changed a couple things and forgot to put the correct live version on the release on github (embaaaaraaaassssiiiiiing)…
Robert I don’t know what you did but I updated the device type with your recent post and my issues cleared up! I swear I’m a pretty smart guy but I will never understand this programming stuff. You’re the best mate!
I just updated it again. it seems some timings I set earlier on are not working as expected anymore. I’ve had to put a second delay in between config commands now where i was at 200 ms before. The effect you’d notice would be hitting config more than once to get your settings to take effect. I watched closely in live logging and they weren’t all taking effect until setting the delay longer. Not sure if ST servers are under load right now or what… Also cleaned up some stuff. I’m having the best luck still on iphone but it would seem the negative values are taking in the preferences in android now too and not causing crashes.
Is it me or is the MultiSensor 6 have a short range? Is there any way to extend the motion range. It seems that I have to be 5 feet away before it detects motion. 6 feet or more It does not detect motion.
I really like the fibaro motion sensor and how sensitive it is. But am very disappointed how small of a range at least at this point the multisensor 6 is. I have tried to adjust the settings but I must be doing something wrong 'cause it is not making it go further in motion detection distance or the multi 6 is short range which will and does stink if that is the case.
I’m still having issue with one of the sensors in my network as I described above. It seems that the sensor will sometimes stop communicating with the network. I can see the light blink so I know it’s registering an event, such as motion, but that even isn’t being registered by the network. If I tap the config icon a few times or jiggle the sensor it’ll pop back to life but it seems to be only a matter of time before it stops communicating again and I can’t always be around to mess with it to wake it up. I tried putting it on AC power to see if this would help but it did not, and the events seem to be getting closer together. I know it’s not the device itself because this is a replacement sensor for the one that was originally in that location. It seems to be that the device sends updates every five minutes as it should, the updates times get longer towards the twenty minute mark then the device stops communicating. Does the hub see this lack of updates as a time out and decide the device is no longer on line? Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing this?
A bit of insight into the temperature calibration discussion: I just completely re-did my Multisensor 6 installation using @Robert_Vandervoort 's 2.1 device code and excellent instructions to securely re-join the divide under USB power (after originally joining on battery power.) Since the new device type allowed calibration settings, I figured I might as well calibrate the temperature to match my nearby Nest.
Like many, I discovered the indicated temperature was a few degrees off from the Nest. Before blindly changing the offset, though, I pulled out my infrared thermometer and checked a bit. What I found was that the Multisensor was reporting it’s case temperature pretty accurately but the Multisensor itself was around two degrees hotter than it’s surrounding environment, including the table it was sitting on. This result was consistent even allowing several hours for the temperatures to equilibrate.
My guess is that when on USB power resulting in with more frequent reporting, use of CPU and radio activation, it’s actually heating itself up a bit, and the small plastic case does not allow the heat to dissipate.
So, I still ended up setting a -2 degree offset, but it isn’t so much an reporting accuracy issue as a thermal design one.
I uploaded the wrong one to github. It’s fixed now. I had changed a couple things and forgot to put the correct live version on the release on github (embaaaaraaaassssiiiiiing)…