I must be doing something that is wrong? I when to the ide and create the Virtual Switch? Does it changes automatically base on what the dryer is doing according to the wattage?
The rule states that if your dryer switch hits more than 4kw, the virtual switch stays on until it falls below that. You need to look at your dryer switch to see if it’s registering how many kW its using.
So, kW means kilowatt, which means 1,000 watts so 4kW means 4000 watts. To put this in perspective, 4kW is a lot for an entire house to be drawing at any given time. Certainly obtainable, but should not be the norm either, unless you have a large amount of stuff and people living there.
I know you don’t actually mean this but it is the second time I have seen you make the mistake so just wanted to point that out for you.
It might cause some confusion for others.
Yes, I meant watts. I am always talking about it with generators in terms of kW, so it’s a habit
@Mbhforum I knew what you meant. Thanks for your help. With all of smartthing issue I’m going to way a while before I get into this again.
For those of you who had issues with the two apps mentioned on this thread, I wrote this super simple app that works even if the washer takes more than one ‘break’ during the cycle. It can be used with stock SmartSense Outlet handler (or any power meters). Notifications can be set up in SHM if an uDTH is used.
Here are my two use cases showing on the dashboard. When clothes are washing, contact opens, when done it closes and I get a text and Sonos announcement that ‘clothes are ready’.
Install the app from here:
Has anyone done a piston for this with core? My rule machine action got messed up with the recent issues. I would rathe do a rule than another app.
Yes. I do.
This was one of my first pistons set up, so there might be a more efficient way, but i have done about 10 loads of laundry since setting it up and it works for me.
Note, i wanted to only notify after a cycle, not after I opened the dryer door or something else that might cause a false alarm. This is the reason for the booleans. Otherwise you could just make a piston that says if Dryer drops below 5 watts; send push message and Washer drops below 3 watts; send push message
Thanks I was setting a virtual switch with the rule machine one I had. This logic looks the same. I figured I could ask someone to post instead of reinventing this!
What are you using to monitor power of the dryer? My dryer can’t use a standard smartplug.
I use the aeon plug as I have a gas dryer.
Yikes that is expensive. A multipurose sensor would be cheaper and go off of vibrations. Still might get it.
Never said this addiction was cheap…
Vast majority of people have had poor results trying to detect vibrations. Newer machines just don’t vibrate enough. Good luck to you though.
The battery one is much less expensive and would work fine even with 240v. Just measure one leg.
Hey, I thought you have disappeared. Glad you’re back…
Can you explain more?
Are you saying I can clamp right over one wire without re-wiring anything?
I just checked and the wires are bundled together and go from the wall straight the to the dryer.
Can I just clamp over the whole bundle?
Which model of sensor?
This is for a dryer to detect cycle done.
By the way, I thought the problem with the multi-sensor was modern washers, as they might not vibrate much, but wouldn’t dryer still vibrate enough?
I’m using the Aeon Labs AEDSB09104ZWUS Aeotec Z-Wave Smart Energy Monitor Meter.
Here is how I have it connected.
Please follow all safety precautions with electricity while following my advice. I do not recommend doing any of this without a healthy respect and knowledge of electricity and codes in your country/state/municipality.
In theory your dryer should have two elements or at least somehow split the 240 current over the two 120 legs. Soooo, if you can safely clamp over one of the legs and the neutral, that will measure half the current. This is enough to measure on/off easily.
My opinion for (long term) safe places: inside the dryer, inside a large outlet box, or my preference, inside the panel.
Edit: forgot to mention, you can’t clamp over the whole bundle. The flowing current in different directions cancel out. Maybe something super sensitive could figure that out, but not these devices.