To anyone out there with a deep-level understanding of Schematics & Circuit Boards… and I’m not that guy
As we know, typical SmartSwitches can’t be connected to the MyQ Garage Door Opener’s External Leads(as in a traditional Open/Close Push Button Switch) as the MyQ Buttons are using RF/Security to communicate to the Garage Door Opener, instructing it to open or close.
Has anyone explored the idea of finding a place directly on the Circuit Board in which a SmartSwitch can be wired/soldered/connected to the board, bypassing the RF/Security?
I see three relays on this board: Down; Up; Light.
Perhaps that would require at least two SmartSwitches, 1 for up ,1 for down.
But if there is a place on the board where there is the traditional Open/Close Command (i.e. Momentary Switch), and wire just one SmartSwitch, it would be kind of fun to do on a rainy day
This is going to be different for different model openers. These guys have already done the work; I came across them trying to find the connector schematic for my opener. I suspect if your opener is one of the models that requires their dongle, you could buy that and wire any other connected relay to signal through it.
In my case, I just doubled up some bell wire from my MHCOZY relay with the wall control wires on the red and white terminals. Other than mixing up the Normally Open and Normally Closed terminals on the relay (left the instructions upstairs, multimeter was out of battery, oops), it was very smooth; I spent way more time on the ST configuration side setting up the virtual door and the synchronization routines than I did on the electrical installation.
Garage doors can kill people. I (literally) wouldn’t touch the controller. There’s a lot of safety stuff built into those.
Instead, the standard approach such as used by the Meross device just makes a lot more sense: parallel the existing remote operation, and you preserve all the built-in safety features of the controller itself.
Plus using something like Meross (there are other alternatives from other brands), preserves the UL safety listing, which will keep your insurance company (and in some cases your homeowners association or township) happy as well.
Any DIY project attached directly to the circuit board of the garage door controller probably violates both warranty and safety codes.
I’d save that kind of project for, say, holiday decorations. Not a garage door controller.
JMO, of course.
just as one example: UL 325 requires that if the obstruction detection triggers twice in a row, the remote must be disabled until the hardwired wall button is used, which is intended to mean that a person with line of sight to the garage door checks what the obstruction is and clears it before trying the garage door again. This keeps automated/remote controls from slamming the door back down multiple times on the same obstruction. (This also protects against Automation glitches.) If you wire in a smart switch which can be activated remotely to the wall button, you are then bypassing this safety feature.
(Keeping SmartThings limping along since 2013.)
In my testing, I discovered that I could just short out the button switch on the circuit board of the wall mounted button with a cheep relay turned on for 2 seconds (simulating a momentary press). On my MyQ opener, the wall mounted button sends some digital code or encrypted message via the two wires to the opener, so connecting anything directly to the opener was not an option.
Here is an example of my setup connected to a dumb garage door opener, but you could modify this and connect the relay directly to the button switch on the circuit board of the wall mounted button.
I recommend combining this with a camera, and perhaps other sensors, in the garage to mitigate some of the other concerns that have been raised.