I tripped a breaker today and when I flipped it back on, one of my GE switches isn’t working anymore. It just makes a clicking noise and doesn’t appear on my z wave network anymore. All signs point to it being dead, just curious if anyone can confirm or if someone’s found a way to bring one back. Thanks!
Which model GE switch? The older ones are known to fail. I had one go bad after a power outage as well, it refused to work afterwards even manually.
sometimes the air gap pull is slightly loose, one time i pulled my switches air gap and pushed it back in and the switch came back from the dead.
I had this happen to me for one of the older on/off versions. I’m sorry to report it’s most likely dead.
This happened to me too, after a power outage. It was a Zwave+ switch, not a dimmer (running a ceiling fan). It was still under warranty, so I called Jasco. They had me send it back to them and they sent me a new one.
Also check the wiring. I read a factory reset can fix it in some cases as well.
These switches are junk. I have had 9 fail over 8 months.
Just had the same problem with 2 GE toggle type switches.
Put these switches in my entire house and just had two with this clicking issue. No amount of resetting seemed to fix it. Unfortunately it has been about 2.5 years so out of warranty :(.
Anyone know what exactly breaks inside the switch? Anything easy to get a part for and solder back in?
I just had one fail exactly this way that has been in service since 2015. I was able to dismantle it and resurrect it by replacing C7 capacitor on the power supply (line connected) board. This is a small 10uF 25V electrolytic capacitor right beside the large inductor. Probably a 5 cent part, but “free” for me since I had a 10uF 35V on hand.
Dismantling and reassembly was straightforward but tedious because you have to desolder a 6-pin hard-wired connection between the two boards to gain access to the back side of the power supply board.
Unfortunately it seems now we cannot ever expect an electronic device to last much over 5 years because of the “capacitor plague”. Perhaps this is an inevitable trade-off required for miniaturization sufficient to have “smart things”. Maybe there should be a standard disclaimer for anyone just starting out in home automation that they will need to have an annual replacement budget for failed devices.
Had one to this on me and it was from moisture in the light housing. Fixed the moisture issue and replaced the LED bulb and it’s been working fine every since. Have over 40 of 12xxx series and they work pretty good. However, started replacing some with the 14xxx series which are ZWave Plus and give instant updates and additional buttons.
Thank you so much for sharing this. I was able to replace the C7 capacitor and it works again.
On the back side there are two slots that give access to some tabs. It’s just held in by friction, but the little tabs need to be pushed to the side. I didn’t have anything skinny enough, so I just bent the plastic using my fingers. Brute force.
Once it’s past the plastic tabs, I pushed from the back, through the square hole.
De-soldering the 6-pin connector was a pain, but persistence paid off. I was tempted to cut the connectors (to replace them with my stash of pin headers), but they are not standard size.
Thank you. I managed to take it apart and replace the C7 capacitor.
Haven’t had time to test it yet though.
The capacitor plague is over a decade old. Are you saying GE is making these switches with 10 year old faulty Taiwan capacitors still?
This just happened to me as well. Switch clicked continuously and lights were flickering. Of course this happened while I was away from home and I had to drive two hours to pull the switch. I just tossed it and replaced with a spare.
I did some research and replaced the C7 dielectric cap with a tantalum cap with the same specs. Tantalum caps last 20+ years compared to dielectric 2+ years. The tantalum cap was $1.5 at Mouser electronics. Worth the higher price for the longevity.
Did you happen to take any pictures? Could you provide a link to the part?
I have five (5) of these that have gone bad. Seems like a fun project.
No pictures. The fun part was getting the 2 boards separated. You’ll be Really surprised at how small the C7 dielectric cap is.
Dielectric cap is marked with (-). Tantalum cap is marked with (+). Make sure you remember where the (-) pin of the dielectric cap came from on the board.
Also, be careful. I think I blew the LED in the process. Everything else on the switch works fine.