Here are the parts I used:
(NOTE: Amazon no longer supplies the DigiYes unit with the offset connector I used. The middle connector positions the unit further to the side. Make sure you get a 1000mA unit. Results seem to be hit or miss.)
Pay special attention to order the correct QI model with the correct position. You want the Micro USB port in the left side of bottom - Narrow side upwards, Wide side downwards. It must match this format:
Using 18 gauge lamp cord and wire nuts, you connect the above female vampire plug to the power and common lines. You then plug in the USB AC Adapter and stuff it into the box. The above female vampire plug was left over from a Christmas light display project.
Alternatively, if you have 14 AWG feed, two of the following female connectors *should *work and take up less space:
Crack open the back of the Fire and tape the magnets inside the back cover:
I taped mine because I wanted to be able to re-position them if needed. To my surprise tape works fine as a final solution.
Tape magnets to the back side of the wall plate. The above position worked best for me to display in portrait orientation. I would also recommend placing additional magnets for a landscape orientation. I haven’t determined where they should be placed to achieve this yet.
Plug in the AC Adapter described above and stuff in electrical box. Tape QI transmitter to wall plate and plug into micro-USB.
Button up the wall plate with the magnets to the top. Notice the red LED is visible through the plate. When the device is paired with the receiver it turns blue. My son thinks the blue back lighting is cool at night.
Plug in the QI receiver to the back of the Fire. I taped mine on the back with clear packing tape again to avoid a permanent mistake. It has turned out as a permanent solution yet allows for QI removal.
There is enough room to put the QI reciever under the Fire cover. In my latest attempt I slit the cover near the USB and it works great under the cover.
Above are the final results.
Presently, I use it as a Sonos controller. However, my long term goal is to use SmartTiles version 6.
By default, Amazon Fire tablet will timeout and return to the home screen. Also, you need the screen at full brightness to be useful. However, full screen brightness uses much more power and maxes out the QI charger. Thus, the following configuration is needed to reduce power consumption and manage the screen sleep mode:
Turn OFF “Atuomatic Smart Suspend” under Fire Power settings. This is on by default and turns off WiFi when idle.
Turn OFF Bluetooth which is NOT needed for a dashboard and will only put extra burden on the charging system
Load the following App and configure it to keep screen on “Until I turn off” and check on the last three options:
You need two more apps that use the camera to sense motion and adjust screen brightness. However, they are not available from the Amazon app store. Without rooting your device or installing Google Play (which has not been always successful), you can side load these as follows:
Load 1Mobile Market. The following video is a little dated but should work fine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpfwP_iDDLE. Go to 1Mobile Market settings and turn off the following options: “Automatic Download Apps”, “Show Notification”, “Auto upgrade”, “Auto install”, and “Auto uninstall”.
Side load Motion Detector and Tasker through 1Mobile Market:
Import the following Tasker Profile into Tasker (thank you @nelemansc) : motiondetected.prf.xml
NOTE: Use org.jastrzab.move.ACTION_GLOBAL_BROADCAST if org.motion.detector.ACTION_GLOBAL_BROADCAST doesn’t work.
Make sure Motion Detector has “Picture” turned off or you will run out of storage in no time.
Over time I’ve noticed Fire OS updates load and reboot to the home screen. In the long run it may pay to turn off OS updates or figure out how to load on start up.
Once the battery went completely dead when I failed to dock the tablet to the QI for a couple of days. When I re-docked the device, the QI charger did not work. I had to disconnect the QI receiver and use a USB to get enough juice in it before it would charge again. Luckily, my receiver was only taped on so I could easily remove it. I’ve read others ending up destroying the receiver when attempting to remove more permanent attachments.