Okay, so my curiosity is piqued with the Zen23 V2’s ability to do 3-way setups with just plain old mechanical 3-way switches. That makes several installations in my house a total no-brainer.
However, I could have sworn I saw somewhere that they could be used for 4-way installations, too. For the life of me, I can’t picture how on a wiring diagram. Is this something that actually works? Or did I imagine it?
Tagging @TheSmartestHouse because I know they sell them. 
Good question @CamSoper! While we don’t advertise the 4-way capability, it can be done BUT only if you have line and load in the same box. We haven’t been able to figure out a way to wire them when line and load are separated between different boxes. Here is the diagram we have for the scenario mentioned above.
As usual, it’s very important that you identify all wires correctly before connecting the switches and restoring power.
ALSO, note that if you have a 4-way switch somewhere in that setting, it will need to be replaced with a 3-way switch (the diagram features 3-way switches only).
Let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks! This is exactly what I needed. Just installed two of the Zen23 V2’s today. Wow! Huge improvement over V1 in every way!
What about a 5 way setup (originally 2 4way switches in between 2 3way switches)???
It’s the same situation as with the 4-way - so you need to make sure load and line are in the same switch box. That’s rarely the case so we haven’t been able to figure out a 5-way connection yet. But if you do happen to have load and line in one box, let our support know and they’ll create a wiring diagram for you: https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/pages/contact-us
I do have load and line in the same box. Also I did email Friday night. Still no reply but it’s been a weekend thus far so I understand. Looking forward to a reply tomorrow
I did get my 4-way circuit wired up. Woo-hoo! Thanks, @TheSmartestHouse!
@mioduz - I think I know what your 5-way circuit will look like based on the diagram above. Between Box 2 and Box 3, add another box. In that box, the red traveler will again just connect to the next box with nothing terminating in the box, so you get an unbroken traveler connection from the master switch to the last 3-way switch in the chain. In the new box, the blacks and the whites will go on the north/south end of a 4-way switch. That should do it, I think.
Did I get it right, @TheSmartestHouse?
Hi Chris, we usually reply within 24 hours. Would you mind resending the email in case it didn’t go through the first time?
Yes, that sounds about right! We’re working on a diagram to illustrate this. We’ll post it as soon as we get it done.
I sent the same email message through your contact us page. If you have time today please post the wiring diagram so i can put this back together. My wife is getting a bit…“nervous” with half the switches hanging out of my new house. lol
also a quick note on your existing wiring drawing above you list the white wire going from box 2 to box 3 as neutral even though it is not tied to neutral directly. just a heads up
Thanks for pointing that out Chris, we’ll have it fixed.
Here’s a diagram for the 5-way. As mentioned before, it’ll only work if load and line is in the first box (where Zooz is). Let us know if that helped!
This configuration doesn’t appear to be working here. I emailed customer support with a few more specific details. Any other advice. Has the configuration you sent been tested before?
So just to share the solution with other users, we found that depending on the type of your 4-way switch, you may need to have the wires in box 3 swapped with black and white wired across from each other (2 white on the left, 2 black on the right). We’ll work on updated diagrams for all configurations and will compile them in a dedicated support page with additional instructions. Once it’s ready, we’ll post a link here as well.
How do I determine if I have both load and line wires in the same box? I know I can tell which is line by checking with a multimeter which wire still has voltage when switches are off… But how do I know which is the load wire?
It’s kind of a logic puzzle, and there are a bunch of different ways an electrician can wire it. Without overcomplicating it, the best I can really tell you is that you need to draw some diagrams of which terminals are hot in every switch position. Then it should hopefully become clear when you look at the diagrams how the circuit is wired.
YouTube is also great for demonstrations of such things.
That was helpful. That and looking at the number of wires in each line coming in/going out. Unfortunately I’m pretty sure my power load and lines come in at opposite ends.
Stumbled on this old thread while looking to install a zooz in a 5 way setup (4 switches controlling a set of hallway lights). How do I determine which one is the final load wiring in these boxes? I could pull a hot line from that box and rewire the remaining switches. I did this on a 3 way install yesterday and it seems to be working fine. My 10 yr old home has two traveller wires even for the 3 way install. I had to make the third gray wire dummy (2nd traveller wire) and just use the neutral as per the wiring in the zooz manual.
Hi Deeps, if you’re not able to identify the wires yourself, you’d probably have to send images of each box to our support team so they can look into it for you and help determine where line is located:
Because multi-point control switches can be wired different ways, there’s no one good way to advise on how to tell which one is load without seeing the wiring in place.
