Is the Eaton RF9601DW Z-Wave plus wireless switch compatible with the SmartThings hub?
Any help is much appreciated.
It’s using the S2 security level, so it might not work well with the V1 hub.
The basic on/off features should work just fine with a V2 hub or higher.
Advanced features like child lock out and panic option would probably require custom code and I don’t know if anyone has done one for that specific model yet or not.
Looks like a nice device: historically, the Eaton Cooper switches have been very well engineered. 
Thank you for your feedback. Will I be able to automate the lights to automatically turn off on a schedule?
I should have mentioned the first time that using that switch will require a smartthings hub. Do you have one? And if so, which model?
As long as you do have a smartthings hub, then, yes, you can automate the basic on/off feature of that switch with the smartthings mobile app. You can base it on a timer, on sunset or sunrise, on another switch or sensor going on, and hopefully on Geopresence, although Geopresence has been kind of flaky lately.
Yes, I have model # IM6001-V3P01. Thank your feedback, I will let you know how it turns out.
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Ok, in that case you should be fine. The following supportbase article shows how to create automations:
Interesting . . . is that true in general for all devices that include as S2, or is your comment specific to the Eaton switch? For example, Inovelli switches can include as S2? Would you possibly expect an issue with a Gen 1 hub with those?
Great question. I’ve just heard different reports about S2 and the V1 hub. @erocm1231 or @Kianoosh_Karami might know for sure.
S2 devices are all backwards compatible with either S0 or no security. The reason I say “either” is because I have heard of some S2 lightbulbs that do not support S0. So if S2 fails they revert back to non-secure.
Any way, S2 switches should down grade their security when included on the gen 1 hub.
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I have the Eaton Z-Wave Plus smart switch, same model as above. I’ve previously installed the dimmer version of the same switch with no issues. Pairing with a Samsung Home Connect Wifi-Smart Things combo hub. I have tried everything to get this thing to pair. I’ve excluded it, tried adding it by bar code scan, by pin code, etc. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. The switch now has a flashing blue pilot light on it instead of the solid blue light it had before I started trying things, so maybe that detail means something to someone?
So I got it to connect, FINALLY, but it said it is connected unsecured and it should be readded. It works but the blue light is still flashing. According to the Eaton docs that means it is not part of a zwave network…but it is being controlled by my app and responds to automations.
Do you know how you got it to work?
I’ve got a new Eaton RF9601 and 2 previous ones paired to my old hub, not the ST
My ST is v2, latest firmware.
I can’t get the 2 older ones reset (click on, then hold for 20 seconds) but that’s separate from the “simple” problem.
I load up the ST new app, do the add device thing, select the Eaton switch (or generic z-wave) and when it’s ready, click the switch button. It tries forever, then says it can’t find it.
The switch is like 3 feet from the ST hub.
I also have a SmartThings model # IM6001-V3P01 hub and am having the same problem as KL. I am trying to add the Eaton RF9601 by finding the device by brand, and by generic z-wave inclusion and it times out. My light is flashing so I know its not on a network. I cannot connect, and when I pulled the switch out there is no QR code or 5 digit code. It was new in the house when I bought it and worked previously on alarm.com. I am wondering if this will ever add due to my lack of QR. Any suggestions would help. Thanks
Did you do a general Z wave exclusion to erase the information from its prior Network? That’s usually the first troubleshooting step for any Z wave device that won’t pair. 
You will have to do something to the switch to get it to accept the exclude command, usually a specific tap pattern. The user manual should tell you what you need to do.
I had to do a factory reset which shows the switch is excluded any network, evident by a flashing light. It comes to a point in the inclusion where the ST app tells me to hit the switch once. When I do that it simply times out. I am following the user manual to a tee.
I don’t have Eaton switches, but it has been my experience that doing a factory reset generally does not result in a Z-wave exclusion. I would run a general exclusion on the hub and exclude the switch. Then try to add it.
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The old hub I was previously using is not functional, thus I cannot exclude it the proper way.
The people who created the independent third-party zwave standard were aware that people might get a device and not have the hub anymore. Maybe the hub itself failed. Maybe they bought the device used. Sometimes a new device ships from the factory still connected to the testbed there.
So they created the “general exclude” which allows any certified Z wave hub to issue an exclude command even for devices it has never been previously connected to. The physical manipulation you then do of the end device is what causes it to accept this command.
Once that’s done, the device is then ready to be added to a new Network, with that same hub or a completely different one.
With some Z wave devices a “factory reset” only resets the user configurable parameters for the device, it doesn’t remove the network information. So that’s why the first troubleshooting step is normally a general exclude. It’s one of those “can’t hurt, might help“ things.
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Thanks for all of that great information. ST was unable to detect the device to exclude it. When I retry to add it, should I add through generic z-wave or picking the add switch? I will probably end up getting a new switch. Any recommendations on a good z-wave switch?
That doesn’t really make sense as long as it’s within range. What makes you think it didn’t detect it? Did you start the Z wave exclude and then do the Tap pattern on the switch? Maybe it’s out of range.