Will GE Dimmable Switch and Caseta Wireless work together in a 3-way switch setting?


(David Hahn) #1

I need to make my non-Smart 3-way switches into Smart 4-way, and
I’m thinking of replacing my existing switches with

I am hoping that by using these two different brands,

  • I can control the light bulbs with ST, by linking the GE switch
  • but use the Pico Remote from Caseta as my 3rd switch without buying the Lutron Bridge.

Has anybody tried this setting?
I can’t do GE Smart Dimmer + 2 GE Add-on Switches, due to the
restraint I have with the location of where the 3rd switch needs to go.

I’m also curious if anybody has tried using Caseta Wireless with
GE Add-on Switch (12723) and if they’re compatible.


(Ray) #2

GE and Lutron switches are ot compatible with physical wiring.
Since the third switch is your main issue. If you can get line and neutral there. You could install another GE master switch without hooking up the load or any smart switch and use ST as your bridge.


(David Hahn) #3

Thanks Ray,

I can’t get a physical wiring for my 3rd switch.
I guess my only option is to go all in with Lutron.


(Ray) #4

Lutron is not your only option. @JDRoberts created a post about battery operated switch but I can’t seem to search for it.


#5

As @Navat604 said, your initial idea won’t work, they’re just not compatible. In fact, the Lutron pico switches are invisible to SmartThings in the official integration; the only thing they can be used for is to control a Lutron master switch.

And as it happens, the GE add on switches are also themselves invisible to the smartthings hub – – they don’t have any radio at all, and just communicate with their master switch with pulses over the traveler wire. So they cannot be used with any other brand.

That said, as he also mentioned, any device which can communicate directly to the smartthings hub can be used in a virtual three-way. The device talks to the hub, the hub talks to the master switch. And there are a number of other battery operated devices which could be used.

The following FAQ lists both battery powered and mains powered devices, both wall mount and table top, so you might find something there that works for you. Just read the descriptions carefully to make sure it will fit you use case.


#6

BTW, if your wiring would allow for a GE add on switch, it should also allow for the Linear/GoControl add on switch, and that one does have its own zwave radio and can communicate directly with the smartthings hub. It doesn’t use traveler wires to communicate with its own master switch; it always uses a virtual three-way.

So again, depending on your wiring, you could use a GE master switch and a linear/go control add on switch, with the add on switch talking directly to the smartthings hub rather than to the master. That means the Linear/go control switch doesn’t have to be on the same circuit. But it is a mains-powered switch.

Or of course, you could use the linear/gocontrol control switch with its own master switch. If you want an exact styles match.

So I’m not sure whether that one helps you out at all, but it’s not considered a “button” the way the ones are in the previous link that I gave you, so I did just want to mention it in case it helps in this specific situation. :sunglasses:

Linear add on switch:

And here’s the Linear master switch, just in case you want to see that one. Note that this cannot work with a GE add on switch, as the wiring is different. But It can work with other virtual three-way devices as long as everything talks to the SmartThings hub first.

The linear/go control line is very popular and is carried at a number of different retailers, so shop around as prices do vary from time to time. Definitely check Home Depot, Lowes, and Best Buy as well as Amazon. :sunglasses: