Hope you guys can point me to the right direction. I searched and read - there is a thread about switches but not quite what I need.
I have pretty much all the lights set up except the two bathrooms that have LED downlights with transformer that don’t work with GU10 (transformer) and don’t want to mess with the electrics as not that familiar with wiring etc
Now what I really want is a switch that can work on either ST (preferred) or other hubs (I have several devices from harmony to Hue being my first - mostly linked to Alexa) so that I can utilise the ST sensor that came with the pack. Ideally I could dim with in wall switch or app tho secondary. But I would like to have the motion sensor detect either door opened (with a door sensor in the pack) or better still with the motion sensor so that It trigger the switch to turn the lights on when you walk in and if no further movements for say 5-10 mins they switch themselves off.
The lights are on one circuit with just two wires in the switch I believe and the lights are LED dimmable ones and not smart…obviously.
GU10 bulbs don’t use a transformer. They just run off 240V.
MR16 use transformers as they run on 12V
If you have GU10 / MR16 housings, you could use Hue GU10 bulbs
Fibaro dimmer 2 module is what I used recently which was installed at the light switch. I have MR24 down lights I think and Philips hue don’t have anything smaller than GU10. It works fantastic.
Thanks soooooo much for all the helpful information!
Sorry, i probably didn’t make it clear - I bought a whole loads of Hue GU10 and some fittings but i just causally ignored the fact that they needed to be IP65 as it’s right above shower - also the transformer (I believe to be 150-200 watts?) requires relatively high wattage X4 to get through the minimum load threshold) - anyway, even if my concept of it is utterly wrong, it has been agreed that those relatively new downlights are not to be replaced end-of…I have been sternly told…(luckily I can still use the GU10 bulbs downstairs in the kitchen - eat my shorts!!)
Will order the dimmer 2 module from Vesternet now.
Oh mine…just saw your even more useful info - that would have been perfect to use.l…
Wife approval tactics:
1: Make sure everything works the old fashioned way using physical wall / cord switches.
2: Be discrete on the cost....
Her - "How much did that cost?" (£48 Fibaro).....
Me - "errr.... I got a deal, it was £15 love"
3: Pretend you know what you're doing...
Her - "Be careful with those electrics"
Me - "Don't worry babe, it's just the low voltage side"
4: Make all your automations benefit her, not you!
5: If she doesent like that camera in the shower, hide it!
Does anyone know if the FGD-212 works with flourescent tube strip lights? I have one in my utility room that I can’t switch to a hue bulb so this solution would be ideal.
What happens If you use the Fibaro in an 12 light LED GU10 circuit which has a mix of dimmable and non-dimmable bulbs (Basically I replaced the blown dimmable with non-dimmable to save you asking why theres a mix). Will it screw up?
Just to add to this, the Fibaro dimmer won’t work if there is too little draw of power from your lights, it needs to be around 180w at least I have found, so I had an issue with LED downlights as they were about 10 x 4w so it would not work, and its a pain if you have spent money replacing all your bulbs with LED’s.
Also, all lights on the switch must be same, so you can’t have a combination of different bulbs or different LED chips (trailing edge v leading edge).
In my experience LED’s seem to be a bit hit and miss. I found that on my kitchen circuit of fourteen 5w Leds (70 watts), originally all bulbs being dimmable with the Fibaro Dimmer 2, when they were off they all glowed at about 10%.
I thought I would give it another bash having changed four (as they failed) to non-dimmable, I now find that only the four non-dimmable ones now glow at about 10%, this is bizarre. I bet if I replaced them with dimmable the whole lot would glow again! Incedentally I’m not using a switch just testing the work-ability before bringing more elements into the equation.
I used the Cree type bulbs in both instances, any other experiences? Have I missed something.
Robin, Thanks for that information, So you are saying they refer to the bulb wattage rather than circuit wattage? If i’ve understood you correctly that now makes sense and explains the problem I am seeing.
I actually have a bypass, but it is really difficult to get into the ceiling to wire in circuit. Presumably as theres no neutral at the switch it is not possible to wire at that point?
Thanks
David
Just want to let everyone know that installation was a success. Took a bit of time - nothing to do with the module - but lack of space!
In the end I took the 16mm backbox out and kept the module just behind as there was a small space and put the box back on. Sounds like an easy job except the box was really stuck and I really do not want to find/use the tube of polyfill that is somewhere in the store room…
Thank you again for all your useful info and pointers - prob would have failed otherwise.
Anyone find the custom DH a tad slow to load at times? It would say “turningon” or off if I press the switch (on app) the second time.
two sets of normal downlights with four G10 LED 5.5w each
Both currently controlled by a standard 2 gang switch
My plan is to install a 2-way retractive switch module for the downlights and a standard 2-way switch for the under-cupboard CFL, on a 2-gang plate. I don’t need the dimming on the CFL but do want it to be able to switch off through voice
And the Fibaro dimmer 2 behind the switches…
I did read a post from end of last year regarding what lights can be used with the dimmer 2 and as all 12 lights are on one circuit, it’s a total of 60w - is that enough? Will this work?
Do you know where I can find the wiring diagram for this scenario? I want to be able dim the LED’s but not the CFLs
