(Help) I need a smart switch that can be used manually (UK)


(Khaled Qari) #1

Hey all,

I have recently purchased the Aeotec switch and dimmer and installed them on dumb switches just to find out that if I turned the switches off manually I would not be able to use from smartthings even though i’m using the neutral. is there anyway to go through this

I need my switch to be able to get controlled from the ST app and manually even if I had to throw my aetoec switches and get new ones

please help I heard fibaro does this but i’m very new to this

thanks


#2

Which model is that?


(Khaled Qari) #3

DSC18103-ZWUS

Micro smart switch


#4

Your wiring probably not correct, the dimmer switch actually support turning off of wall switch and the dimmer switch will still work.


(Ron Talley) #5

My suggestions would be the following. Not only do you get switches that work either manually or by program but you get 2 additions buttons (double tap up and down) that you can assign to other functions.


(Khaled Qari) #6

Im talking mainly about the switch not dimmer


(Khaled Qari) #7

Does this work with smart things or does it need a custom DH


(Nathan Curtis) #8

The GE/Jasco switches, fan controllers and dimmers all work natively with ST, but if you want to use the advanced features of the 14xxx series Z-Wave Plus devices (double tap) you can use the custom DTHs the community has created. I have nearly 30 of them installed in my home… They’re fantastic.


(Khaled Qari) #9

those are only US size. what i’m looking for is UK size :frowning: sadly


(Don) #10

You should be able to use your wall switches. That’s kinda the whole purpose of the micro.
I’m guessing you wired it wrong.

I had to verify every wire in the circuit to make sure I was using the correct wires. Even wire it several times before I got it right. It ended up NOTHING like the way it was wired when I started. I’m glad I took pictures of the wiring before I started so I could go back and start over if needed.

Are you using it in a 3 way circuit? Is the power (line) coming into the circuit from the light box vice the switch box?

Toss us some more details, specifics,. On the circuit. Where is line, where is neutral, 3-way?

We should be able to help you figure it out.


(Don) #11

I have also used these. I prefer them over the Aeotec. The ones I bought had actual pigtail wires so was easier to wire up.
The external switch connections on the Aeotec are smaller than say 12 gauge wiring. It’s difficult to tighten the scew down without damaging it. I had to use a small piece of smaller gauge wire for these connections to avaoid damage to the smaller screws.


(Khaled Qari) #12

its a 1-way 3 gang switch
I added a neutral just for the purpose to make it the aeotec work since I couldn’t make it work without neutral

and to be totally honest this was all the work of an electrician because i kinda suck at this

power to the 3-gang switch is coming directly from fuse box (electrical panel)
do you need pictures or did I say enough ? xD


(Don) #13

Let me get online and on my computer where it will be easier to share the wiring diagrams.

So the micro is in the switch box with the other switches? Or in the lights box in the overhead?
You have line, load, and neutral at the switch with 2 wires going up to the light?

If you have a line, load, neutral in the switch box you could have used a regular smart switch. You should still be able to use your micro.

I’ll wait for your answers while I head to my computer. :slight_smile:


(Khaled Qari) #14

the micro is behind the dumb 3-gang switch (only connected to one of the lights) and yes i have line load and neutral with 2 wires up to the light


(Don) #15

1st thing is if your going to do this instead of the electrician, VERIFY that power is off in the switch box. Don’t think you can do it HOT because the electrician did. It only takes a split second and things can go bad. Better to be SAFE.

Well this is how Aeotec says to wire it.

You could just wire in the light portion 1st, then verify you have it working through smartthings.

NOTE: Make sure you have the line and load wires on the right screws. It makes a difference. Load wires (light) go on the outside screws.

After that you can add the 2 switch wires and verify again.

NOTE. the switch connections are fragile and will not readily accept say a 12 gauge connection. You will have to use a smaller gauge pigtail from the switch and wire nut it to your house wiring. There is NO POWER running through the switch so it is okay. Your just using the wiring as a loop to signal the micro the switch was toggled.

If this is how you wired it already, then I would check your connections. It does work when it is wired right.

If you get frustrated, already burned up your micro by wiring it wrong, or just give up there are lots of choices for you to use a smart switch vice a micro.


(Don) #16

Here’s how they say to wire it with power running through the switch. Take note of their disclaimer that if your using a dimmer this method will ruin your micro.


(Khaled Qari) #17

Wish me luck while i try haha


(Don) #19

VERIFY power is off while your wiring stuff up. I would go with the 1st diagram. Then you can verify the micro works BEFORE you add the switch into the mix.

You can do it, just double check and verify everything as you go.


(Khaled Qari) #20

But this says momentary push button. Mine is regular on off will it work?


(Khaled Qari) #21

Tagging because i forgot to reply