https://m.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-85-Decibel-Wireless-Indoor-Siren-Works-with-Iris/50038872
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The specs on the page says it does not work with ST.
Just went and bought it today. Got home and had it linked to Smartthings in 5 minutes. No custom handler required, worked right out of the box.
You’ve tested getting the alarm to go off via ST?
The reviews say it’s standard ZW and does work with ST. Not that Lowe’s has ever lied and said things only work with Iris that work with anything.
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@jkp and @Danabw, I’ve had 2 of these working for the last 3 years working great with ST and SHM. I did create my own DTH to make it look better.
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Manual says otherwise.
The indoor siren is a Z-Wave™ enabled device and is compatible with any Z-Wave™ enabled
network. Z-Wave™ enabled devices displaying the Z-Wave™ logo can be used with it regardless of
the manufacturer, and can also be used in other manufacturer’s Z-Wave™ enabled networks.
The siren can connect to other Z-Wave™ networks. To connect, first place the Z-Wave™ controller
into inclusion mode, then press the pair button once. To disconnect, first place the Z-Wave™
controller in exclusion mode, then press the pair button once.
Link: https://www.lowes.com/pdf/UT_IndoorSiren_IM%208-2%20ENG-101512.pdf
What does your device handler do?
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Does it have to ring full volume or can you set s lesser volume?
NVM…already answered.
Does the siren run local using the stock DTH?
How loud is 85 decibels? I’m not using this to be a burglar alarm and scare people off but to alert people in the house to a significant event like a water leak. Is this like blow your socks off loud or just get your attention loud?
I looked up the loudness of the Nest Protect alarm for a comparison, and it’s 85 decibels, if that helps.
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I don’t have one but that gives me an idea. It’s smoke alarm loud which is pretty piercing.
Yes it does run locally, which is important for a security device. I have 2 currently, and may pick up a third with the sale. 
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I just picked up one of these so if you have a link to the device Handler that would be nice
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@BBoy486 - I like (and have used) John’s DTHs, but you should know that if you use a custom DTH then you can’t have local processing, so if internet is down, your automations using the siren won’t run. Probably doesn’t happen often to you, but something to be aware of. (Of course, if anything else used in your automation chain doesn’t have local processing then it doesn’t matter if you use a custom DTH on the siren.)
If you want to use local processing you have to use a stock SmartThings DTH - sounds like there is one per comments that local processing is available.
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Well, I purchased one today. Here’s a quick rundown to answer questions asked:
@jkp Yes, it works with ST. It paired with a native Z-Wave Siren DTH (Device Handler). It’s a standard Z-Wave device.
@Danabw Yes, ST will make the siren alert and flash the lights on the device.
@johnconstantelo I understand not caring for the layout of the standard ST DTH. I’m not sure why, but my siren has not reported battery level yet. It’s been connected to ST for several hours.
@farlicimo The siren comes with a jumper (See page 5 of manual) in place, or mine had the jumper in place. With the jumper in-place it supposedly operates at 100db. The 100db mode is comparable to a smoke alarm. My 8 year old grandson was standing in the same room with the siren and promptly put his fingers in his ears and yelled “You trying to bust my ear drums or something?” 100db mode is pretty shrill. I haven’t tried the 85-90db mode, but suspect that would work for the type of alert you’re looking for.
@Danabw The stock ST DTH does run local, but any custom DTH runs in the cloud.
One thing you might want to keep in mind when you head to Lowe’s, the shelf did not show it on sale for $24.99. The shelf showed regular price ($34.99) at two different Lowe’s I frequent. It rings up at $24.99 though.
Additional note: It’s not shown in the manual, nor mentioned on the Lowe’s web page, but the siren appears to be able to be powered by a 6VDC power supply by using the socket located just below the jumper pin location. There is writing in the area showing “DC IN 6V/600mA” and symbols indicating outer contact is negative and inner pin is positive.
Now I guess I’ll start trying to figure out why the battery is not reporting. Maybe I’ll re-pair it sometime soon and see if that helps. Anyone noticed a problem with battery reporting?
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