This is the lower strike during tests. The deadbolt pushes outwards into the outside panel - door is cracked open in this picture, so the deadbolt is retracted.
This is the final “hiding place” for the power supply and zwave switch. There is now a push button in the middle blank panel that allows for manual lock/unlock when SmartThings isn’t working (lol right?). You can see the coiled cable relaxing down there. I never use the outside panel of the door so that cable doesn’t bother at all. I drew power from the power outlet to the right of the newly installed box. The plug on the left is there to cover the 3-gang required to fit all parts in. It is wired and works, though I’ll probably never use it. The plug on the right has a green light that comes one when the door is unlocked. The outlet is only powered while the door is unlocked - good for a lamp or something that will turn off when you lock the door
Of course, your application is outside and you could use a nice weatherproof box hidden somewhere to provide 12V to the lock. And you won’t be needing the $29.99 coiled cable, err car charger. let me know if you need help, I can assist you with getting SmartThings to work your lock Also, please note that you will need to choose whether you want the lock to be normally open or normally closed. They call it fail-safe (door opens when no power) vs fail-secure (door locks when no power).