This Amazon page seems to show new HUE devices (unless I’m mistaken), including a new hub.
Looks like the bulbs have been re-branded as HUE white/and or color. Perhaps these are brighter per the recent rumors…
The dimmer switch is also available without bulbs for $25.
New color bulbs look to be up at Best Buy also. Looks like they are going from 40W to 60W (equivalent)…
Thank you! Been waiting for the dimmer switch to become available. Bought one of the new Hue White and Color (60W equivalent) bulbs too.
6 down at Amazon… 14 left… 
Do let us know if the lights are brighter.
It’s very weird branding.
The new multicolor bulbs have words on the base that say “Hue white and multicolor” these are the 16 million color bulbs. Although the Amazon description says the same lumens as before, 600, which is fairly dim, The bulbs are actually 800 lm, noticeably brighter, which makes me happy. 
The new white color only bulbs now come in two versions, a “40 W” equivalent and a “60 W” equivalent. This is what used to be the lux bulb. They now say “Hue white” on the base. The 60 W equivalent are about 10% brighter than the previous version.
They’re trying in part to distinguish from the “friends of hue” line like Bloom which could do colors, but not white. And in Dutch or German, it sounds fine. But in English, I think it sounds weird to say “white and multicolor.” But there it is.
The previous line just said “Phillips” on the base for The 16 million color ones, and “Philips Lux” for the white color only.
Looking at the Best Buy website, it looks like the color (HUE) lights are now 60w.
I just had a little fund to replace a couple of bulbs but not going all out with this details… You may know better why can’t they make these hues brighter as a super engineer. I just ordered the dimmer switches for all the rooms so that missus is happy and me too… 
Don’t feel good these days and post some non-researched post coz I am totally losing focus on everything at all.o
Weren’t they always?
Remember that wattage tells you how much current they draw so the whole “60 W equivalent” thing never really made a lot of sense. The real issue is lumens and that varies a lot from Brand to brand and model to model. There are “60 W equivalent” bulbs that produce 600 lumens, and some that produce 1000 lumens.
You could be right. The old HUE bulbs show 40w on the website though.
From the looks on the pics of a person who already has it from an amazon review, it doesn’t look like you could just replace a standard light switch. This would be prefect for older houses who don’t have the white wire required by most zwave light switches.
Since this doesn’t control the current to the fixture, you probably don’t want to replace the existing switch.
Instead, you leave the existing switch where it is in the power on position and put a switch lock on it. Then you put this one next to it to give you tactile control.
Or of course you use this one as an extra switch and put it anywhere you want. 
The new ones are 800 lumens:
Source: https://www.reddit.com/r/huelights/comments/3nhdpu/phillips_hue_bridge_20_unboxing/
Actually what I would do is remove the old switch and connect the wires so there was always power to the lights since there is no reason to have a hardwire switch at all.
Sure, that’s good if it works for your use case. To check your local codes, some of them don’t like you to not have an obvious way to turn off power to the light fixture. Nanny state stuff but it is there in some places.
Hmm, all of my ceiling fans in my house have constant power. They also have wall switches, but they are just wireless remotes. It was like that when I bought it. Not sure why there would be a code that you have to have a switch to cut the power to a light. You don’t have this for any wall outlet other than the from the breaker box which would do the same thing for an overhead light with constant power. Not saying there is a code saying different, just saying it doesn’t really make a ton of sense.
Lots of the codes don’t make sense. Where it exists, it’s supposed to keep people from electrocuting themselves if they try to replace a lighting fixture.
By the way a lot of places in the US have in the housing code that there must be a toggle switch for an overhead light within 6 feet of the door as you enter in attic. But they don’t have the same code for a basement. Just weird how these things get propagated. I still think the attic one was started by some city inspector who was afraid of bats.
Hahaha I’m sure a bat or animal scared a guy once and he wasn’t going to have that happen again!
I really wish SmartThings had integration with the Tap or Dimmer switch.
Yeah, that would be nice.
SmartThings does work well with the SmartenIT 3 toggle switch, which is battery operated and works well as a wall mount or tabletop device.
does anyone know if the new bulbs and hub are Zigbee? will the old bulbs work with the new hub?
