I’m trying to install a Leviton Smart dimmer (DH6HD) and its matching dimmer remote (DD00R), but I’m running into a wiring issue. It doesn’t seem to be the wiring that a “normal” 3 way would have. I seem to be missing where the line is coming in and where the traveler is to the other dimmer.
The first installation is a 2 gang box with the other fan control on a separate circuit. Only one bundle comes in (see pic): 2 gang
At the second location is a 3 gang box with the other switches on a separate circuit. Again, only one bundle coming into the box: 3 gang
After messing around with this for a while, I let the internet get the better of me and starting thinking I have a California 3-way or some other weird variation and that I cannot use these switches.
You guys are way more experienced at this and I’m hoping you can help.
Do a search, there are multiple threads regarding 3-way installs.
With that said I just did a 4-way yesterday and have done multiple 3-way setups in the past. Personally I pull off all the switches, turn on the power, and figure out which is my line (hot) which should be the only wire with 120v. I turn the power back off then using a spare piece of wire to make a loop between the boxes (continuity) I figure out which wires are going from switch to switch and label them. Once that’s done the only wire left unlabeled will be the load (light) and I install the new switches using my now labeled wires.
Thanks for the response. Yes, I’ve done the searches here and elsewhere, but the thing that has been throwing me is that I’m expecting to see two conduits in at least of one of the gang boxes(one with the line and then the other would be the travelers to the other gang box).
That being said, I’ll try your instructions this weekend. I do have a question about this though:
Could you explain the loop between the boxes? What is the spare wire connected to on each end?
So my multimeter can check for continuity, most do (a complete loop). So I’ll run a wire from a wire sticking out of one Box over to another Box and check continuity between the different wires…through a little bit of trial-and-error you’ll find which wire is going from Box to Box. Then you can label them and from their figure out how you want a wire it.
Not sure if that helps at all but I could draw a picture if you want
Instead of running bonus wires to check continuity, connect a wire you’d like to test from box A to the ground wire in box A, then go to box B and use your multimeter to check resistance from each wire to ground. if you get a low resistance (usually less than 1 ohm) you know you found it. Attach label or a colored tape and repeat as necessary.
The fact that you have a single 3 wire Romex going to both switches, I suspect that power is going to your fixture first. This means your options are limited and you may need to use a micro relay instead.
In the case you described, I’ll still have line power at one of the dimmers AND also at one of the lights (total of 4 overhead lights controlled by these dimmers), is that correct?
OK, so I was able to confirm which switch is receiving Line (the 2 gang) and also using spare wire and a multimeter that Red goes to Red and White to White. Also confirmed that power is not going to the lights first.
But here’s where I am confused… If Line comes in to the 2 gang, how is it getting to the 3 gang? I would expect there to be another bundle attached to the existing dimmer, but there’s only one.
I’m missing something here (and would love to understand the wiring) and/or is there anyway these dimmers will work with the existing wiring? If not, what would I need an electrician to come out and do?
They used Red and White as the travelers? Like you are positive that red goes to red and white goes to white? Its odd but I won’t put anything past people
Can you draw it out how you have wires going? If those two wires are the only ones going from switch to switch and you found one other wire that is “hot” then there should only be one wire left going to the lights and you should be able to get this working.
This picture is what I’m currently thinking is going on, although I can’t confirm whats going on at the light fixtures (4 of them total, represented by the single one in the diagram).
Yeah, you need to verify at a light that is whats happening because if it is like this you have no neutral which you’d need for the DH6HD. Based on your findings though it kinda sounds like it.
You might be able to use a dimmer that doesn’t require a neutral but other then rewiring I’m not sure what else you could do.
