Alternate Wiring for Levitron Decora 3-way smart-Switches?


#1

I recently decided to automate my home and have discovered the previous owner was inconsistent about wiring 3-way switches. I have most set up, but my last two look like this: image

I found this other article for a GE switch, but I can’t seem to make it work (Maybe the positions of the terminals are different?) [FAQ] GE 3-Way Wiring

Thanks in advance!


(Ray) #2

Can you post a picture of your smart switch wiring?
Just to confirm. You have 3 romex conduits at the one box and one romex conduit at the other box?


#3

I took the smart switch out and put the other switches back on when I couldn’t get it working. I can wire it up again tonight. But you are correct with the romex count: a 2-wire coming in from the breaker box, a 2-wire going up to the light, and a 3-wire running to the other switch, with the Hot not connecting to this switch; it goes straight over the 3-wire to the other switch.

I’ll re-wire and take a picture when I get home.


#4

I have setup these switches also in different configs. The big difference is if you are using dimmers the Leviton ones need a hot line to both the master and add-on switches, unlike the GE’s that you can get away with just a traveler and neutral for the add-on switch.

You need to put the master switch in the box that has the load connection to the light. Then use one of the traveler wires to get your neutral to the second box for your remote add-on switch. Next pig tail off the hot line for the master switch. This will get you line(hot), load(light), neutral, traveler and ground in the Master Switch box and line(hot), traveler, neutral, and ground. in the box for the add-on switch.

The yellow line would be unused in this case also, not sure why that line is even needed accord to that diagram. Unless it is the ground in this case.


#5

This worked out. Thank you! Really helped me understand how the switch/add-on work.