I recently purchased a boat load of Visonic MCT-340 E. They were to be used in the scrapped Sage By Hughes Security Systems. It seems that the MCT-340 SMA automatically is recognized and works universally across many platforms including Smartthings. To connect this device to Smartthings you have to do many extra steps.
I don’t know what the answer is but I want these to be recognized and work on all platforms that it should work with without any extra steps. Even if that involves somehow hacking into each and every one of these to change some code that is messing systems up.
If instead, it is just discovered as a “thing” then you will need to manually change the device type to the one for Tyco (Tyco is the parent company for this device).
There are vendor instructions for this, it looks pretty straightforward:
reset the device so that it is ready to be paired to a new network. ( that’s what “make it discoverable” means.) if it’s a brand-new device, then it’s probably already ready to be paired.
follow the standard SmartThings instructions for adding a new device to the network
if it added as a generic “thing,” then manually change the device type to Tyco so that you will be using the correct device type handler.
JD thanks for the help. I have a good understanding of all of what you have said and I am looking at finding a way to modify the device so that it is like the SMA version and automatically sets right up.
That would require flashing the firmware, and that’s not something that you can do from the SmartThings side. It may not be possible to do at all, a lot of security sensors are really fussy about that because it could be a security breach.
Yes I know I am hoping to find a way to flash the FW so the Part Number reads MCT-340 SMA or just MCT-340 instead of MCT-340 E. I figure if we could somehow get that done then they would work seamlessly with many popular systems.
I have the same sensors (10 atm), I use this DTH (straight Tyco copy from public github, just added the correct fingerprint/model):
I did try first to just change from thing to the Tyco DTH but didn’t work, stuck in open or something like that, guess the configuration/reporting got screwed up. Worked much better when ST detects the device and its “correct” DTH directly.
It’s incredibly unlikely that you’ll be able to achieve this by changing the firmware. You’d likely need the proprietary firmware files from the manufacturer as well as the [custom] flashing jig.
Also, I see you’re using our “Works With SmartThings” mark on a few of your listings. It’s probably best for you to remove that as you aren’t an official SmartThings partner, and these devices absolutely are not Works With SmartThings certified.
That’s kind of the issue though. When we certified the Tyco Door/Window Sensor we tested that specific device with a specific firmware version. That passed our testing.
This other device is seemingly similar but has a different firmware version and reports a different model number. For all I know there are other significant changes as the device is meant to work with a specific controller.
Use of the Works With SmartThings branding is reserved for partners that have entered into an agreement with us.
Changing to tyco works fine in ST V1 but I had problems with ST v2, Like @tette, I must to create a new DH from Tyco DH with the correct Fingerprint, and then works fine in V2.
Most definitely does but I’m looking for a way to make it so they simply work without the extra steps. Any ideas? I would need a way to flash the FW with a standard MCT-340 FW and/or it may be needing an edit of the Hardware ID?
I assume this works with V1 and well? If this works for V1 and V2 this is a much better solution because you can continue installing as many as you want after creating the DH where as previously you would have to change each sensor one by one to the Tyco sensor.
Hi, Once you have added the new fingerprint, the device automatically take the new handler, as many you have, without change it to tyco, in both versions v1 and v2,
Yes I have a v2 hub. I had loads of problems with the change DTH method, got some working after numerous resets. With the added fingerprint to a tyco copy everything was easy to setup. Probably some good explenation to this but havent tried to dig deeper.
Hi John, im not sure that they should stay on, I think you only see the lights during setup: pairing and walking test. They are very useful during walking test to see the coverage and to sync the pir and the radar. At least mine work like that. Don’t know if there is a setting that can control the light s after the initial phases are done. I will check tonight if I can find anything to shed some light on this topic.
on this topic.