Linear GD00Z (Garage Controller) and Wall Switch (with Motion Detector)

It has been a little while since I did this, but I believe I ran the positive lead from the GD00Z’s transformer down to the relay, where I cut the wire, and tied the positive wire from the GD00Z to the other connection on the relay.
I followed the basic format as presented by Chadkillingsworth earlier - I just cleaned up the install. It has been running now for a couple months now and all is good.
I will get a few more close-up photos and post them; Those would show the wiring details at the relay.

Okay, I just got one of these and I’m in the wonderful situation (despite none of the exclusion manuals listing my model) of having the same opener / wall remote that chadkillingsworth does. Why they don’t say “any smart LCD temperature displays are excluded from compatibility” as well is beyond me.

All my wiring was done pre-build and is inside the walls and ceiling, so I have no interest in exposed wire from my wall pushbutton up and over to my opener.

That said, can I still use the solution of buying a cheap wireless remote, jumping 2 wires to the red/white inputs of the opener, and the other 2 white wire leads from the zwave device, and just having the remote up there? I don’t care about the remote battery dying – If it happens I’ll climb up once a year or whatever and put in a new battery. I am crap at soldering and electronics.

This was supposed to be easy. Frustrated. The opener chad and I have IS Craftsman but not MyQ technology so I am a little irate that it wasn’t clearly listed on the exclusions list. Pretty popular unit.

Because I have a lift master and this is my only solution

  1. Do you still have it working since it has been a few months.
  2. Can you get me some pictures of the remote and how you have it set up.

I think this is the best and cheapest option and still be able to use the smart controls on the door opener. Very ingenious.

Yes it is still working… works fine. I had more issues with the ZWave with my Honeywell’s so I needed a repeater to make it solid.

I need to climb up and get pictures…I’ll see if I can get time to do it.

Its really easy. When you open the remote there is a switch on the push button. You want to solder your GD00Z leads to either side of the switch. The GD00Z, when it activates, just creates a short, so by putting those on either side of the switch, you are essentially shorting out the switch and activating the remote.

For the voltage, you just get a transformer from Radioshack or Walmart that matches the voltage of your remote. Mine happened to use a 3v lithium battery, so I got a 3v transformer. Solder the positive wire from the transformer to the positive of the remote and the negative to the negative of the remote and plug in the transformer. Oh… and be sure to remove the battery too… you don’t need it any more. If you don’t really care, you can probably bypass the transformer and just use a battery in the remote. Most remotes will last several years before you need to change the battery. I just didn’t want the headache, so I hard wired the remote to make a more permanent solution.

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Would be cool to see pictures and I am sure there are others that would also like to see it. Thx for getting back

In the mean time… this is almost exactly what the solder job looks like I pulled it off Google images):

You have a little switch push button that has 4 leads. Remove the battery and put a multimeter in continuity mode across 2 of the leads. Push the button and see if the mutimeter shows continuity. If it does those are your 2 leads. If it doesn’t, try a new set. Remember, you should have continuity ONLY when the button is pushed… and not when the button is not engaged.

Also… the red and black in that pic is NOT positive and negative. Use your white leads from the GD00Z.

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Found this thread too late. I bought a lowes GD00Z during the recent sales. Was trying to replace my relay that had some ghost opening events. bah

Here is my clicker

This is a little dated but…

I have this exact issue. A lift master belt drive from right before they added my q to it and a 398lm wall switch with motion lights and lcd with temp/time.

Just tried to add a Linear gd00z opener used with my dsc touch alarm and

-The 398lm works on its own

-the gd00z works on its own

-When both are hooked up only the 398lm works properly, the gd00z receives the signal, flashes the strobe. Then nothing…

My understanding is the 398lm requires power and is more than a n/o contact closure. The gd00z is essentially a n/o contact closure. But the 24v messes with gd00z.

I’m going to try isolating the gd00z by putting a schotty diode on the +24 leg preventing the dc from getting to the gd00z.

If that fails my next thought is to use a automotive relay as isolator. Gd00z will just trigger the coil and the n/o relay will trip creating the short for the lift master.

Any thoughts anyone?

Hey M0unta1nM4n, fantastic post. I ran into a problem I’m wondering if you or someone could help with.

I installed two new Ryobi GDO’s to replace my 24 year old openers. I had two Linear GD00Z’s working great with the old system. Wouldn’t work with the new system, same issues as described in this thread. The wall switches are “smart” and have 8 buttons on them to activate the various different modules on the ryobi GDO so plugging in the Linear leads to the R/W connector on the opener didn’t work.

What I tried:
I took one of the remotes just like you described. Removed the battery, confirmed continuity on either side of the switch (marked with red arrows on the diagram) when the switch was pressed. I soldered the Linear leads but when the Linear beeps it doesn’t open the garage

What I noticed that is unexpected:
If the battery is in the remote the LED shines indicating a short across the switch (even though the Linear isn’t activated). It doesn’t matter if the Linear is plugged in or not. if I touch those two leads to both sides of the switch the LED goes off and the garage door opens or activates. This same thing happens even if I touch both sides of the switch with just the meter in continuity mode. The same goes for switch 1 and switch 2.

Any ideas on what is going on? Maybe the Ryobi remote/circuit board just has some strange things going on? Perhaps I just need to order a universal remote, program it and then use that remote??

Or perhaps there is something obvious to folks with more experience than I?

That looks correct as those switches seem to be right. Its just a switch so you really need to be sure that you didn’t short it with a bad solder joint somewhere. Its pretty easy to do with as small as these remotes are.

If you can short the terminals with the battery in the remote with a single wire and activate the garage, then this should absolutely work. The Linear only creates a momentary short, so its not really rocket science.

It is certainly possible that the Riobi remote is a bit more complex than your average universal remote, but I doubt it.

For troubleshooting, I would do as I said above to see if you can open the garage by simply shorting the terminals with a wire. Then I would place a meter across your Linear leads and open/close the garage and watch for continuity to see if the Linear is not working right.

It has to be one or the other.

I have another success story to report on this front.

I just found this thread and was heartened to see that I am not the only lunatic out there who undertook this project via the hand-held remote route. I have two Liftmaster 3850 garage openers and they are great. I wanted to keep all the benefits of my LiftMaster 888LM MyQ wall controls (motion sensor lights, timer closing, MyQ Internet control, etc.), yet add Z-Wave capability with my Vivint 2gig control panel.

Bottom line is my brother-in-law and I soldered the wires from two Linear GD00Z-4 units (necessary to have two Linears in my case because I have two garage doors) into a Chamberlain KLIK1U handheld 2-door remote. I looked at several other remotes before deciding on the KLIK1U, which I decided was ideal because the contacts were easily accessible and since it is fully “rolling code” capable, thus offering the benefits of LiftMaster Security+ technology.

I get 100-percent reliability with the Linears and the soldered KLIK1U. The MyQ wall controls still work great and I have Z-Wave control over the doors, which allows me to control them and get alerts about them through my Vivint security system.

My brother-in-law had the great idea of taking the circuit board out of the remote’s housing and putting it in a larger box, namely, a black wooden cigar box. The soldered circuit board is nice and secure in the cigar box, and it even looks nice and neat on the wall. Here is a picture, I would have posted more but since I am a new user on the forum I can only post one pic:

Here is a picture of what the KLIK1U looks like in the re-purposed cigar box. It is screwed in securely on standouts and is kept high and dry in the box. Normally the box door is closed but I opened it up for purposes of sharing this picture.

Also, my wife confirmed that the system works perfectly with voice control through the Echo. When my wife walks into the kitchen, she says, “Alexa, tell Vivint to close the garage doors.” And Alexa says “Ok” and closes both doors.

One more pic to show what the system looks like in the garage. I keep my garage fairly tidy so keeping the wire clutter at a minimum was a prerequisite.

Thanks M0unta1nM4n for the reply. I will try and short the wires and test. I had previously just manually touched the linear wires to either side of the switch and it would act like it was shorted (even with power off to the linear. Also, another very strange thing - if I put my meter in continuity mode and touch either side it will erratically beep as if there is a connection even when the button isn’t pressed (???).

I ordered a universal KLIK3U remote in case there is something strange with this Ryobi remote. I’ll report back here with results soon. thx.

mjfoxtrot, that’s a great report. I wish I had read your post 10 minutes ago when I was debating on whether to order a KLIK1U or a KLIK3U. I hoping the KLIK3U is just as easy since I ordered one already.

mjfoxtrot, I see that you hooked both Linears up to the same two button remote. Are you able to use the linears to open or close the doors at the exact same time? The reason I ask is my native remote will not operate both at the same time but I suspect the KLIK1U/3U Universals are independent since each button can operate at different frequencies.

Did you have any luck with universal remote? I have the same Roybi gdo and have the same issues as you with the remote.

Rafaeltorresjr, My universal should be arriving this week (I ordered used - so no 2 day prime :/). I’m pretty confident it will work though but I’ll report back as soon as it arrives.

Mouta1nM4n, I did the two test you suggested. If I short the ryobi remote switch with a single wire it opens/closes exactly as if I press the button. Also, if I put the meter in continuity mode and monitor the Linear wires it stays open until just after I activate and the lights stop flashing at which point it shows closed for about a second or so. Again, just exactly as we’d expect. However, when I place those same two Linear wires across the switch it shorts it immediately (as if the two wires were connected. What could cause this behavior?

I’ll be trying the universal when it arrives. I’ve confirmed that one of the frequencies KLIK3U operates on is 372Mhz which is what Ryobi uses so I’m fairly confident this should work - It just needs to hurry up and get here for me to try it out.

C0recollector, sorry to take so long to respond to your question about the KLIK1U and its ability to open/close at the same time. But here is the answer: yes, the Linears will open/close the doors at the same time through my KLIK1U remote. Now, I will clarify slightly: “same time” is not quite accurate, because I do notice a roughly half-second discrepancy when I issue the Z-Wave command to the Linears to close the doors. Door 1 begins to close and door 2 begins to close a half-second or so later. In other words, the two doors don’t technically close simultaneously, but it is pretty darn close. I suspect that what is happening is that my 2gig control panel is actually sending two separate Z-Wave commands within a few microseconds of each other.

In other words, it goes like this (the below scenario assumes both my garage doors are open):

  • I press “Close Garage Doors” on my iPhone Vivint app, or tell Alexa to close both garage doors;

  • My 2gig control panel sends a “close” signal to the Linear controlling garage door number 1;

  • My 2gig control panel sends a “close” signal to the Linear controlling garage door number 2;

  • Door number 1 begins to close; and

  • Door number 2 begins to close within a half-second or less after door 1 begins to close.

  • Once the doors are closed, the tilt sensors on the doors inform my 2gig panel that the doors are shut. Again, there is a slight delay in between, so that when I look at my iPhone app, it will show door 1 as being closed, then about a second or two later, it shows door 2 as being closed (hopefully . . . I have noticed that very infrequently, the tilt sensors get “stuck” and don’t seem to know that the door is closed. In such a case, I have to open and close the garage door with the wall control to re-calibrate things. Like I say, this is infrequent, happening about 1 out of 20 times, but it is annoying.)

mjfoxtrot, thanks for that info. The reason I ask is I have on my SmartThings controller a timed action that will close either door if it is open after 10pm. If both doors were open with my 23 year old (previous) opener then they would both get the signal simultaneously and close (I didn’t notice an delay). Now if I take the original Ryobi remote and press both buttons at the same time (simulating two Linear signals) only one door will open. That original remotes buttons must share the same “radio” so its an either or.

So I was hoping that the KLIK3U would not have this limitation and I’m assuming it doesn’t because each button can be assigned to a different frequency.

However I received my KLICK3U today and could not get it to program to the Ryobi GD200 even though I know Ryobi works at 372 mhz and 372 is one of the frequency the KLIK1U and KLIK3U support.

I called Chamberlain and the gal said it wouldn’t work with Ryobi. So I have a more fundamental problem now. How can I either get a universal to program to the Ryobi (so I can hook the Linears up to it OR how can I get the original Ryobi remote to work with the Linear.

Any ideas?