Kwikset 910 Z-Wave goes offline after about an hour

Unfortunately, I’ve factory reset, excluded, and paired the lock 2-3 times this last week and half and the results are always the same. The lock stays connected for an hour or so, then disconnects. Looks like my module has gone bad.


You have described exactly what I went through to a T. My z-wave mesh started to get affected also. That is, 75% of my z-wave devices would go offline and repairing would fail at those devices. Most of them were the z-wave repeaters built into my zigbee iris plugs. I read the z-wave repeater portion was a little flaky, so as part of the troubleshooting, I removed all of those. I don’t think it ever improved the mesh anyway. I installed an aeotec z-wave repeater about 5 feet from the lock and still the same disconnecting problem.

Z-wave in general has left bad taste in my mouth. I installed a z-wave garage door sensor a while back and that would give me a lot of heartache. It went offline constantly. I finally switched the sensor with a zigbee open close sensor. Now it always works.

I hope it’s not the lock itself that is the problem and not just the module. Is that burning out modules?

I ordered a used Kwikset Convert last night at a cheap price through amazon. I was going to swap out my dying z-wave module from my 910 and use the Convert’s zigbee module. Hopefully that will solve my issues.

Add me to the list. Got a replacement module and all good again. Actually hard wired it first but still had issues.

At this point, I’m not sure if it’s that I got two bad Kwikset Connect Z-Wave modules in a row or if the lock itself is also to blame - or even that it was causing the modules to go bad. I guess at this point, it doesn’t matter since I’m replacing the whole lock with the new Schlage FE599NX later today. If I were to try to make a reasonable guess, I’d say the z-Wave Home Connect Modules are not very good and even if they start their life OK, they go bad after a a few months.

I thought about switching to a Zigbee lock but decided to stick with Z-Wave because my Z-Wave mesh is so much stronger than my Zigbee mesh, and because all of my Z-Wave/Z-Wave+ devices are very stable - of course other than the Kwikset 912. I blame Kwikset for this debacle of over a year - not Z-Wave.

It’ll be interesting to see if a new Home Connect Module will solve your issue. I originally replaced just my module, but it was with the same version/release as the one I was replacing. Therefore (I guess), the same thing happened to the replacement. Yours, although quite a bit more expensive because you bought a whole lock to get a new module, may work out better because Kwikset has hopefully released a new and improved Home Connect Module and you got one of those.

Good luck!

Good luck, Ron. Not at all wishing bad luck and I hope it solves your issues. In my case anyway, things stabilized for a while with the replacement module but then it slowly went the same route as the original. Hopefully, you get a new release of the module and it’ll work out. Fingers crossed.

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The Kwikset Convert, used on Amazon, was actually cheaper than trying to find a zigbee module by itself on ebay. I was able to get a “good condition” version coming from Amazon Warehouse for $33+tax.

I found the link on this thread:

Apparently the “Amazon Key” editions of the lock are just zigbee versions of the Kwikset Converts.

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Smart way to convert to Zigbee. I looked at the ‘Convert’ listing on Amazon but didn’t see that you could also get a used lock/module. Since you only care about the module, the condition of the lock is certainly less important.

Good luck!

I just heard back from Kwikset and these are the instructions I was sent:

Thank you for your recent email describing the difficulties you are experiencing with your product. We apologise for the delay in response to your inquiry.

If the batteries in your SmartCode need to be removed and replaced in order for your lock to reconnect to the Hub, The mounting plate is placing tension on the torque blade. Remove the interior assembly from the mounting plate, loosen the screws on the mounting plate and reposition the plate, so there is no tension on the cylinder torque blade.

Next, align the turn piece with the torque blade and reinstall the interior assembly on the door.

Lastly, perform the door handing steps to correct the orientation of the bolt.

NOTE: Adding repeaters to your system may help communication between the lock and the Hub, especially if they are far away from each other.

We hope we have answered your concerns. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us by updating this case with your comments or submitting a new case.

I’m not sure how this would affect the z-wave, but I’ll give it a try later.

Yellow for 5 seconds means that lock is ready to pair. No wonder is draining the battery. Check this out on Vera forum :slight_smile: allegedly from Kiwikset support:

From Kwikset: “Yeah the Z-Wave products in general are pretty bad. Z-Wave just isn’t a reliable or good technology. Have you considered our Zigbee option? Those are definitely a much better solution, Z-Wave isn’t the right way to go anymore. You should return that lock and buy our ZB version or look into our new Bluetooth solution which has some awesome new features.”

There’s no way that’s a real reply from customer service. Kwikset is part of spectrum brands, which is a $3.5 billion company. Not some startup in a garage.

As for zwave, it’s a solid technology that works well when it’s implemented well.

Kwikset is a budget brand that takes a lot of shortcuts to keep the price low ( ask any locksmith), and one of the frequent complaints is the use of plastic parts where other brands use metal, which leads to degradation over time.

So it wouldn’t surprise me if there are internal issues with the alignment. But it’s not a zwave protocol issue and I would not expect their zigbee product to be any better.

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I know, but who knows what the support division at Kwikset was going through in 2013. That’s about the same time I’ve got my three 910 Z-Wave locks (which I never had a problem with) …

Their response felt more like a reply to someone who is having a problem with batteries draining in general. That is, if the torque blade was hard to turn then the motor will need to use more battery power.

TBH, the zigbee module does look sort of like a prototype card. hah.


Hopefully the zigbee module will give me better luck. Otherwise I’ll have to switch out the lock completely.

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Let me know how things work out. I’ve been looking for a reason to change my locks to zigbee, not because I have problems but because secure devices slow down your Z-Wave mesh. And my locks are growing old. Swapping modules might be the cheaper way to do it.

Remember that zigbee is subject to interference from Wi-Fi. One reason it is not as popular for locks is that if you are trying to boost Wi-Fi around your door in order to support Wi-Fi cameras or video doorbells, you are quite likely to interfere with the lock’s operations. I’m not saying it’s impossible to use a zigbee lock successfully, but given that smartthings gives us no network diagnostics, it can be very tricky to troubleshoot if you do run into problems.

The beaming used for zwave locks does run slightly slower than regular Z wave, but it shouldn’t be noticeable to most people if you have a good mesh.

I would not say “secure devices slow down your zwave mesh” because
a) that’s not what is happening and
B) it’s going to confuse people about the new S2 security protocol, which is in fact faster than older generations. :sunglasses: For example, I haven’t seen any complaints about the new ring protect alarm system, and it’s all S2 zwave.

BUT no controller on the market supports it, yet and it requires an update to the 500 chip. These older locks and controllers still use the S0 which has been proven not to be as good as advertised.

I have Zigbee contact sensors on the doors and had no issues for years. I started with a Z-Wave centric system and slowly building up my Zigbee mesh. I am at a point where I think that I can shift to a Zigbee centric system. I like the advantages it offers over Z-Wave.

There are S2 protocol controllers out now. For example, the one for ring alarm. (S2 is required for UL listing as a security device.)’s new Gateway, probably for the same reason.

Lifeshield Base S30 hub (this is the security company the ADT just bought)

For that matter, ADT, Vivint, and DSC all have them, only available with professional installation.

As far as DIY home automation, there are some that you can buy now:

The new Zooz USB stick ( The first USB stick with the S2 protocol)

The zlink zl100

Powerley Energy Bridge ( distributed through utility companies as an add on to a smart meter)

The Connectair CW7 (Canada)

Smanos K2 security hub (UK)

Honeywell has one in the pipeline, but I don’t think it’s been released yet.

But anyway, there are a bunch of them out now.

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LOL point taken, I meant none of the popular DIY controllers support S2 yet, that also offer Zigbee. And people would still have to replace their older locks with Z-Wave Plus locks to take advantage of the S2, don’t they?

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Update: The new Schlage FE599NX came yesterday afternoon and I excluded the old Kwikset 912 and added the Schlage to the hub, all apps, DTH and automations. The whole process went very well and, so far it hasn’t dropped from the Z-Wave mesh at all. I know it’s a relatively short time to judge, but by now, the 912 would have dropped a minimum of 6 times - probably many more.

First impressions of the Schlage is that it’s much quieter, responds much more quickly to commands and automations and is much more sturdy than the 912.

Good luck to those of you trying to solve your Kwikset connectivity issues.


I’m still waiting on my Kwikset Convert to arrive. My original delivery was lost.

Strangely the z-wave is working slightly. It goes online by itself sometimes and status updates will be prompt. Controlling the locking through the app still doesn’t seem to work though. Battery drain is also not as bad. Batteries were 100% on Saturday. It’s 80% now. Doesn’t seem to be trying to pair anymore based on the absence of the yellow LED that I used to see.