Help Needed Wiring Fibaro FGS-222 to existing switch for outside lights

fibaro
wiring
range

(N) #1

Hi all,

Apologies, this is a total novice question but I am attempting to connect a Fibaro FGS-222 Dual Relay to a double light switch which controls outside wall lamps on 1 switch and a floodlight on the other. I am totally confused as to how to wire it up, even though I have the below wiring diagram from Fibaro.

http://www.fibarouk.co.uk/resources/WiringDiagrams/DualRelay2x1.5Connection.pdf

The below pictures show you the back of the socket.

There are lots i don’t understand, such as the browns are the lives to the switches, but why are the Common terminals terminated with Red wires? Why is there a black neutral terminated into a block but seemingly not going anywhere else? Very confusing.

If anyone would offer some advice as to how I wire this up I would be very grateful. My current thinking is below:

  • S1 to L1 on the switch
  • S2 to the other L1 on the switch
  • Q2 one of the live (brown sheathed cables) currently in the switch
  • Q1 the other live (brown sheathed cable) in the switch
  • IN - looped in to L
  • L- no idea. nor do I understand how to connect this back in to the switch
  • N - no idea, as with L.

On a second point, I was going to pop another one of these into a light switch in my shed. The shed is 25 metres from the switch being discussed here. All there is between the two is the wall the switch is in and the shed wall the the other switch is on - other than that there are no obstructions. Do these act as Z-Wave repeaters and are the 2 of them close enough together for it to work?

As always, thanks in advance.

-N


#2

Im not a qualified electrician, so please check with a multimeter or get a professional in if you have any doubts. And switch off the mains before doing anything. That said however my understanding would be as follows:

The wiring contains old colours, with some marked up using the new colours. And they have used two red wires for live and switchedo live which doesn’t make it any less confusing.

I.e looking at the switch closest to us in the picture you have

Red - a permanent live. This is going to the switch closest to us in the picture
Red with brown sheath- this is a switched live. I.e when the switch is thrown, it allows the live to flow from the red wire.

The switch farthest away (this one is at least kind of conventional)
Red - again a permanent live
Black with brown sheath - switched live

The blacks in the connection block are neutral.

This is how I would wire a 222 from that lot.

Add a wire from the other side of that neutral connector block into the N terminal of the relay.

Get another connector block and take both red wires from the back of the switches and wire into one side. From the other side take two wires back to the terminals you removed the red wires from on the switches. Also take another wire to the L terminal on the relay.

Bridge (connect with a short wire) the L terminal and the IN terminal on the relay. This gets your lives and neutrals into the relay.

The black with brown sheath, and the red with brown sheath are the switched lives. Put these into q1 qnd q2.

Now run two more wires from S1 and S2 back to the terminals on the switch you removed the sheathed wires from.

Good luck getting that lot in a double switch back box. Be prepared to get the chisel out.


(Wayne) #3

The biggest issue here is not the wiring but the shallowness of that back box. You’ll need to either cut a deeper one or get a spacer to increase the depth.


(N) #4

Thank you very much for the assist. I will have a go at this wiring in the next day or 2 and let you know the outcome.

@Redball, @a4refillpad - agreed, even though the backbox is 35mm i think the hammer and bolster will be needed here :slight_smile:


(N) #5

Finally managed to find the time (and motivation) to go at the socket in earnest! :smiley:

The great news is that the wiring suggestion you made works @Redball, so thank you very much indeed. Happily, I only needed to put a 20mm collar on the switch to hide the extra terminal blocks and the fibaro so no bolstering needed.

Current status:

  • Both the physical switches work as expected

  • The device is appearing as Z-Wave Device Multichannel which I expected.

  • Only 1 of the 2 switches works from ST which I also expected

Final question, from your experience which device type would you recommend I use to get this working fully?


(N) #6

I completed the config using the steps in this post. :+1:


#7

Hi,

Sorry only just seen this. Glad you got it sorted, though I had only used 212 up to this point so one channel was enough. It would have been a case of looking for a handler and modifying, or using one that somebody smarter than me had already written. Which you obviously did! Glad it all worked :slight_smile: