Has anyone used the Aeotec DSC18103-ZWEU Z-Wave Micro Smart Switch with Samsung SmartThings for lighting?
I want to get my lights working with Samsung SmartThings, and in the app it’s listed that Aeon Labs Z-wave micro dimmer is compatible.
I’m not bothered on dimming, just on/off is sufficient. I’m in UK and in my wall switches only have 2 wires, live in/out as normal. I believe that you need a neutral for these? If so can I fit in near the ceiling rose wiring to pick up the live there?
In the UK very often wall light switches are just live loop in and out and no neutral so what is the norm in this case? as above?
Also on Amazon UK they have these listed. Can you tell me what the difference is please.
I have also noticed another switch come online at Versternet called BeNext. This is supposedly a 2 wire item as well and should work in your setup. I haven’t tested this but I think I will when it comes into stock.
@Brad_Storan So are you using it or not? Which is the model number of it please? Where did you buy it from please?
Looking at the wiring you need a separate live and neutral as well as the switch wire. UK normally don’t have neutral in the wall switch have so may have to mount it near the ceiling rose where you can pickup a permanent live and neutral and the switch.
@kyle_smith can you help with the wiring please and tell me/show me exactly the wiring you use please? Can you fit it in the existing wall switch that just has a live in and live out, ie only 2 wires in?
I have the (from memory here as I don’t want to take the switch off the wall…) the live wire from the wall comes into the dimmer in ‘L’, the ‘N’ and ‘O’ are joined and go to the light. The wire from ‘Sx’ goes into COM and the wire to the light coming out of L1 going to ‘S1’ on the dimmer.
There are lots of wiring diagrams available on Vesternet and Fibaro UK, the one below is the way I wired it up.
Still confused sorry, even with the wiring diagram…
In the wall switch currently there is only 2 wires. Both live I think (will confirm) that is the live wire to the light so the switch is just that…making the wire continuity.
What you describe, and looking at the wire diagram I can’t see how my wires fit into that.
When you initially opened your wall switch did you have just 2 live wires?
It’s a lot simpler than it looks. The two wires go into the fibaro. These are “live” and “switched live” .
The other cables in the pdf just connect to the wall switch if needed. If you don’t need a wall switch then a blanking plate will suffice.
You can then choose to install a battery operated switch elsewhere to instruct smartthings to switch on the light.
Ah I see…I think! As my current wall switch has 2 live wires in these goto the L and N and then I’d put 2 extra new wires from the wall switch to the switch on the relay?
My LEDs aren’t dimmable, but I believe there is a switch version? Also sure there is a dual relay type for a 2 wall switch?
I’ve literally just ordered a Aeontec really switch but this needs separate power and neutral, these would be so much easier if I can get a non dimmable version…
Are these definitely ST officially supported to? I can’t see any in the list? Where did you buy from?
You can only use a dimmer device if you have two wires only. There will never be a switched version as a power cut will disable the device hence needing a neutral to help maintain a current after the relay is switched off. The reason the dimmer version works with two wires is that it never truly switches off totally so the device will stay alive you will therefore need to compromise and buy dimmable LED lamps together with sufficient load too. Typically low power LED bulbs will not generate enough resistance and may blink due to a tiny current running even running at minimum dim levels. I would advise larger cicuits and better quality dimmable LED lamps to prevent this issue from occuring.
If you chose not to use dimmable bulbs then there is currently no solution for you.
I’ve just got it installed and it works and was detected by ST as a outlet. Turns lights on an off etc without issue, but doesn’t report wattage and the ‘configure’ button doesn’t do anything. Not the end of the world, but thought I could be clever and write something that would detect if a light failed by seeing the W draw wasn’t correct.
I agree I thought it would be marked as a switch, but it was detected as an Aeon Outlet! Maybe it needs configuring manually instead of just find new things.
Its installed in the roof next to the light rose. I ended up getting a sparky to fit it, because I had another light that was piggy backing off the landing system and I didn’t want to mess that up.
Ok thanks, least it works. If I can get this wired and working then think it’s going to be best solution for me with GU10 LED non dimmable lights.
Can you rather than “add things” can you not add a smartapp from the forums to get it working “better” as in the correct identity it, and get the energy working etc?
edit
Well I’m struggling! For the bank of lights I want to control, they are GU10 flush mounts. Took them all down from the plaster ceiling they are in, and no sign of a ceiling rose, they just have a twin core cable in and out.
I think the previous owner (badly) fitted them originally, but unsure how he would without using a ceiling rose for the loop in/out…anyone help…?
The device still needs to be setup. Support thought I could try another device type. I tried the generic zwave switch which did work, but that does’t support watt usage.
Somewhere they must all go back to someone on the lighting ring circuit (assuming they are not on the socket ring). If they are upstairs, then you could go in the roof and trace the cables. Less easy if downstairs. I’ve got one of these cheap USB endoscopes that behaves like a webcam, which is great to find out whats going in behind plasterboard.
Re the device type, I’ve got that sorted and working better with a customer device type, happy to share if you like. In essence the kWh is a running today and the ‘configure’ is for sending the settings to it, which you’d only need to do once I assume. I’ve modified the device type to allow both current W pull and this total.
Have to say i much prefer the Fibaro modules, but I have got a couple of these aeotec ones working (in the ceiling - more to do with a lack of space in the wall box) using the device types from @Robert_Vandervoort below: