GoControl/Linear Garage door Opener


(kenweise@bigfoot.com) #1

OK, this isn’t a SmartThing problem, but is a problem with the controller.

I installed a used GD00Z-4 yesterday. It paired perfectly and reports status. I wired it in parallel with the door push button (old fashioned simple switch). When executed, the device chimes that it is getting ready to open/close, then nothing happens. It does not trigger the door. Does anyone have the knowledge to diagnose the non-zwave side of this?


(Eric) #2

GD00Z-4 simulates a button press, which momentarily connects (jumpers) the 2 wires to the wall-button. I’ve never hooked mine up but:

test: jumper at the wall button for 1 second - does the door toggle? That is all I would expect the GD00Z to do.

If the jumper works , then I’d expect a loose connection from GD00Z to wall-button.
if the jumper does NOT work, then I’d expect a loose connection from wall-button to door-opener-motor-unit.

You may instead have a short/permanent-accidental-connection in the two output wires from the GD00Z, or from the wall button. In that case, the result is uncertain - for example, my own garage door opener will not toggle until the button is released.

Or you may instead have a wall-button that is not simple. Many people cannot tell what they have just by looking at the exterior. The model of the garage-door-opener-unit should clarify. If there is a “Learn” button on the opener then I expect the wall-button is not simple.

There are several existing threads that deal with this issue.


(David Macey) #3

Why wire to the wall button and not to the opener directly, at the same location the wall button wires connect to the open directly?

I am assuming your wall button is wired in to the opener, or is the wall button wireless to the opener?


(Eric Brown) #4

I suspect you accidentally wired the to the terminals for the electric eye sensors, or the wires made poor contact with the terminals on the motor.

Verify that your wires are indeed in parallel with your wall-mounted button and that they button works. If neither works then you may have poor electrical contact between the wires and the terminals or you reconnected the wires to the wrong terminals. Find the user manual for your opener and verify that you have connected to the correct terminals.


(www.rboyapps.com - Make your home your butler!) #5

What’s the model of your garage door opener? The new ones have digital switches and the GD00Z-4 won’t work with those.


(kenweise@bigfoot.com) #6

It is wired directly to the opener on the same lugs as the button. The button is a simple open/close switch.


(kenweise@bigfoot.com) #7

Standard dry contact open/close switch.


(kenweise@bigfoot.com) #8

There are four lugs. Two for the switch, and two for the sensors. They are clearly labeled on the opener. I have attached to the switch lugs. The switch is a normal open/close switch and works perfectly. The wires are twisted together and then screwed down.


(www.rboyapps.com - Make your home your butler!) #9

Do you have a multi meter or equivalent? Check your GD00Z-4 output contacts if they’re closing or open when you remotely open/close the garage door. Also check if there’s any voltage on the garage door lugs for the switch.


(kenweise@bigfoot.com) #10

Using the multimeter, I first tried the original dry contact switch. Normally open. Closes with the push button. The GoControl unit was also normally open. After triggering it, it stayed open. Hmmmm. Bad wires or bad unit? I opened the box and found the wire lugs (the wires are replaceable). I traced the wires. No breaks. I triggered it again. It stayed open. My conclusion is there is something FUBAR in the electronics preventing is from shorting the circuit. Time to try for a refund. Thanks for your help.