I have one GE 12724 dimmer (of more than a dozen in my setup) that no longer responds in ST. The switch still responds to physical controls, but I cannot control it through ST. I just ran a Z-wave network repair and got a message on the device in question:
“Network repair for Kitchen Sink Lights [04]: Failed to update route”
I appreciate any input as to what might be causing this and if there is a known solution.
Thanks!
It’s a known problem with this brand as they age. Doesn’t affect every switch maybe 15%. Much discussion on the forums. I’m too tired right at the moment to dig out the topics for you, but it was recently discussed at length in the following thread. You’ll have to read down a ways to get to the discussion about them falling off the network.
There are two fixes that work for most people.
One) cut the power to the circuits at the switches on then restore. Not just of the switch, at the breaker. That’s often enough to fix it. For a while anyway.
There are two fixes that work for most people.
One) cut the power to the circuits at the switches on then restore. Not just of the switch, at the breaker. That’s often enough to fix it. For a while anyway.
Two) pretend like you removed that switch and replaced it with one of the identical model, even though you actually leave the original switch in place. Just run the “Z wave replace” utility from the smart thing as mobile app or from the IDE if you have the windows act like you remove that switch and replaced it with one of the identical model, even though you actually leave the original switching place. Just run the “Z wave replace” utility from the smartthings mobile app or from the IDE if you have the windows phone app. Just doing that seems to fix it for some people, although most seem to also need to do the circuit breaker cycle.
good luck, I know it’s frustrating.
I believe someone mentioned pulling the little white breaker (beside the led - on the switch itself)
If that’s true than that would make 3 ways 
Thanks JD!
I had searched the forum, just didn’t across this particular discussion for some reason.
Cutting the power at the breaker did not fix the issue. I just replaced the device, and it worked perfectly. Here are the steps I took.
I’m fairly certain that @JDRoberts is a robot that or he has an incredible memory and amazing voice to text program.
This.
Take one engineer, add 10 years in a wheelchair with limited use of the hands, plus an iPad, and you produce someone who either remembers what they read, or stops writing All together.
Hey, it’s better than having a super enhanced sense of smell! LOL! 
I started to see the same problem with my GE dimmers after migrating to hub v2. The fix that worked for me was to go into the IDE, -> my hubs -> utilities -> enable z-wave module. A couple of secs later everything worked fine again.
This just kills me…ok, not really…
The whole reason (for me) to move away from G.E. bulbs is the aggravation of them randomly dropping off the network.
So I wire up switches because that’s the cats meow…and they drop off the network too!
I feel your pain. But the fact is, companies do have engineering philosophies.
If a brand has that kind of flaw in a product that they leave on the market, it’s not that surprising to see a similar flaw in another product from the same company. It means they think the market will accept it as a trade-off for a lower price or other features. Sometimes there are other things involved, like they can’t afford to stay out of a new product category they haven’t quite mastered yet, but more often, I think it’s about what they think their customers think is important.
Just sayin’…
Hi, followed directions from point 1 to 5, for point-6, can you elaborate a bit as nothing happens when I am trying to push it twice
It’s been a while since I’ve had to do this, but my memory is that you have to experiment with different lengths of pause between the two taps to get it to work. A quick tap certainly does not register. I actually have a switch or two that needs this done again. I’ll try to repeat the process in the next few days and update the thread.
awesome, thanks- will try again later tonight and provide my feedback as well
Does anyone have a fix for when the “Replace Device” workflow does not work? I have a few 2+ year old switches in my house that will not respond.
Before carrying out “replace device”. You first have to exclude the device. I do this quite often and usually the GE dropped offline but not ready for pairing hence the exclusion is required.
If one of my GE switches becomes unresponsive, I usually just pull the air-gap for a couple of secs and then replace works without any extra steps.
The downside to excluding is that you have to remove the device from all your apps and routines… this is pretty disruptive with my setup. If anyone has a way to do an exclusion without removing from apps/etc, I’m all ears!