How did you wire this?
My sensor batteries are fast empty(2 day). So I use wire.
-Two wire using (- black, +red)
- Adapter 5v, 1A
Hmmm. That could work beautifully in places where there is AC power nearby and the sensor does not move… such as the multisensor that tells me whether the dryer is finished. A USB charging adapter should be able to do exactly the same thing as that arrangement.
Before I try that, can anyone tell me why it would be folly?
I’m definitely no engineer, but since the original battery was 3v, and the adapter is 5v, wouldn’t that be dangerous?
Could be, but voltage ratings usually are not super-precise.
In any event I thought about it too, and there are 3v adapters out there for 6 bucks. If I do this, that will be how I roll.
It has worked well for over a month now.
At first I also thought it was impossible
But it worked very well.
There are 2 things to watch out.
- The 5V works for this sensor but won’t work with Iris or some of the other sensors. The sensor will work but you will crash ST Android app everytime you click on the sensor. I tried them so beware. Temp reading could be way off due to heat? Longevity could be I question. If you are going this route. You can buy a step down DC to DC adapter for dirt cheap on Amazon.
- 3v adapter probably will not work since you will need around 3.4V. Tried as well.
You could buy an external battery holder and do a mod like people did with the ST presence sensor. That’s another option you could do and on a budget.
I use this combo as the power adapter is only 3v. I run the small wire through the wall, ceiling or floor and connect multiple sensors to one adapter close to a power source. I have 3 of these which can handle up to 1A.
My four Aeon Labs MultiSensors are running with the supplied USB cable from the little iPhone chargers. It’s been very reliable for two-ish years, although running the device from external power means temperature calibration is needed. (USB power makes it a ZWave repeater & allows more frequent reporting.)
I also think 3v is better for the sensor.
Long runs off 5v will drop the voltage at the sensor below 3v if you aren’t careful. Using 12v and DC to DC converter would be a better option.
Here is my solution I posted several months ago. I have converted 3 devices and all good. Plan to change another over the weekend.
Hi this idea looks great, running something on a higher voltage does some times work because the components inside will be always rated higher, at work we run lifeline units on 12volts when the original power supply was only 9v , we did check it with the manufacturer first, since some components are rated for higher voltages it safe but with battery devices they are sometimes a bit more accurate, I’ve got a energy monitor which never moves so I fitted a set of AAs to it same voltage but more amps last for years not months and AAS are cheaper than some button cells, it would be interesting to see how long 2xAAs in a AA battery holder glued to the back would last, it would be still mobile?