So it’s looking like the Dragontech is a white label (generic) version of the switches that Jasco builds for GE. It can still create some price competition. 
Difference in weight?
No difference in weight
Bought one of the PEQ water sensors.
This thread is dangerous.
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Just bought the new Envisalink EVL-4 to integrate my DSC alarm panel.
Found it for about $20 off retail of $129 with free shipping.
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Best Buy has the PEQ Contact Sensors on sale for $19.99 (free shipping if order is over $35).
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/peq-3-series-contact-sensor/8229286.p?id=1219317424758&skuId=8229286
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yeah it is… I bought a water sensor, two contact sensor and an appliance plug. Thinking about the best buy deal now too.
Did you buy those other PEQ sensors recently? Were they or are they on sale somewhere? I have some PEQ water sensors and really like them. Would love to pick up a few more and some motion sensors as well.
I found one last week for $19 on ebay. They are selling for $24.99 now on ebay.
Just grabbed 5 of the PEQ contact sensors. First major upgrade since setting up the hub back in September with just one motion and one contact. Just need to decide where they’re needed most.
Again? Son of a…
< credit card melts >
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The $20 PEQ sensor are tempting but i’m also on the fence for the Iris Centralite ones so I’m a little conflicted about which one to get (eventho I know the Iris ones are $5 more).
Does anybody know which one is better, looks, function, and reliability wise?
PEQ are also made by centralite, if that helps. 
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Would the PEQ sensor work on Garage doors? They are steel doors, so wasn’t sure if any of these sensors work on steel doors due to the magnetic nature. These would be cheaper than the accelerometer based sensors.
Might work, you have to lift it up off the steel. See the following discussion (this is a clickable link)
Just as significantly, though, people use accelerometers because then you have a tilt sensor, which let you distinguish between “open” and “opening.” The contact sensor can only give you end state.
The PEQ devices on sale are nearly identical to our previous generation of contact sensors. I would assume the new Iris sensors will be a bit smaller, but should function almost identically.
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Im confused on the significance of “open” vs “opening”, meaning why care about “opening” as a state? The doors take about 10 seconds total to transition, and why would I care for other than “open” and “closed”? If the door was closing and the eye sensor trips (ball rolls in way, person, etc) the end state will stay open if I attempt and fail to close the door.
What am I missing here? $40 for two of these vs $70 for two tilts…
It’s just a garage door thing. Technically garage doors have 5 statuses: open, opening, closing, closed, and unknown.
Opening and closing means the door is in motion. Some people trigger events off of that, such as the flashing light or a beeping.
I have a friend with a child on the autism spectrum who is a bolter, and they have the house set up so that the kitchen door into the garage is always locked while the garage door is in motion.
So as is typical, it just depends on your own particular. If information on five states is useful to you, then you go for tilt sensor. If you don’t need it, you don’t need it.
Thanks, I figured that was the case, triggering on the transition states.
Can anyone else chime in on magnetic open sensors and steel garage doors?
Physics, as discussed in the linked thread.
If you put the contact sensor right against the metal, steel will become magnetized over time, and the sensor will eventually give incorrect status. If you lift the sensor up off the steel, typically with plastic block, that probably will work. Sometimes it’s just trial and error, but once the door does become magnetized, it can take a few days before it clears again.
The test is simple. Take a regular refrigerator magnet. If it sticks to the door in the place where you want to put the sensor, eventually you will probably have a problem.
If you can position the sensor so that the piece with the magnet is off the steel door itself, and the place where it is going to be will not hold a kitchen magnet, you may not need the plastic block.
Magnets in most of these sensors aren’t very strong. But the trick is getting it close enough to still be able to move the reed inside the other piece of the sensor without having any magnetizable material within that field.