Best vibration sensor for detecting clothes dryer on/off

Hello,

What would be the best vibration sensor for using with a clothes dryer to detect dryer on/off?

Thanks in advance!

As far as I know, the SmartThings Multi-Sensor (hmmm… haven’t changed the name, I hope) is plenty sensitive for this task.

Many other types of shock sensors are meant to detect window or door break-in attempts and are not sufficiently sensitive.

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I use these and customized the smartap to support them

My washing machine didn’t vibrate enough so I found using a smartapp that monitors power usage worked very effectively. Below are a couple of links that talk about it.

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Yah… My dryer doesn’t vibrate enough for the Z-Wave Shock sensor (also available from Monoprice), though it has a calibration dial inside that maybe can be adjusted “enough” to try.

Power draw on an appliance outlet module is a great idea.

Dryers are usually 220/30A ccts so the the regular 110 power monitors won’t work; different plug as well.
If there isn’t enough vibration for an ST device how about a multi unit in the exhaust vent to detect the decrease of humidity or temp as the dry ceases operation?

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You could put one of these on the wires coming from the breaker for your dryer

Aeon Labs AEDSB09104ZWUS Aeotec Z-Wave Smart Energy Monitor

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i had the same thing on one. house. moved sensor to front of washer next to door then it worked fine

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You are maybe the 2nd person I’ve seen have an issue with 220 vs 110 on their dryer causing them to not be able to use the Aeon device.

There are numerous people using it fine though. I’d say that 110 is the “usual” and that 220 is unusual. Is your dryer either old or overly large?

220V isn’t unusual. Electric dryers are typically 220V. If it is a gas dryer, it is usually 110V because the electricity just needs to spin the drum.

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That’s the rub, electric vs gas dryer, makes more sense now.

Everyone that I know that has a dryer has an electric 220V model. Depending on where you live it’s probably just more economical to run it than using a gas model, or just more practical (particularly for apartment buildings and the like).

I’d say if anything 110V dryers are the exception, at least in the Northeast.

I just discovered this topic and I’m hoping that some of the original contributors are still around with solutions. Here are my issues and needs. My washer and dryer are about 20 years old and decidedly stupid. I think when they go off they stay that way, but the washer has a delay start. I doubt it’s using a whole watt though and it’s a feature I never use.

Dryer, like 100% of dryers I’ve ever used in California in my entire life (70) years is gas. It uses 110v for controlling it, turning the drum etc.

The Aeon devices at Amazon now run more than $70 each if you add in the exorbitant tax rate here, making them out of reach for me. So I’m looking to implement vibration sensors. Both appliances have some annoying quirks. The washer has a display showing time remaining. It counts down to 01 and stays there for another 10 to 20 minutes. This is a Bosch made Kenmore Elite that cost $1400 18 years ago. That quirk means even if I start a cycle and say it’s an hour ten minutes, if I set a timer inside it’s never ever done but the extended time is so inconsistent that I can’t pad my timer. The dryer on the other hand never dries anything on auto correctly. I don’t care to put damp clothes away. But it seems to think I do.

Now, my laundry is located in an unheated garage where summers are in the 90s by mid morning and in winters, thanks to the excellent insulation in the garage, the space never warms even if it actually gets nice outside. I absolutely despise having to put on a coat to go outside to find a washer not yet done. Hate it. They do have buzzers (very wimpy assed that you can’t hear from 10 feet away.). I also have to negotiate stairs.

My GA goals are more oriented to aging in place and saving money on bills — I think all of us as we get well into the sunset years think about this. Every trip down those stairs is a potential fall. I know most of the denizens of this forum are young guys who love to tinker or older retired guys who love to tinker. I am assuming I’m probably in a small minority of great grandmothers jumping on HA bandwagon. But you all have moms and grandmas and I’m hoping that you’ve worked out some of these solutions for them (as well as wives). So any ideas?

It sounds from your description that your dryer is NOT 220v which means you cannot use the expensive aeon clamps anyway.

You can get the SmartThings plugin outlet and use app
“energy alerts“ listed under “energy management”

Quick - can you tell me if two SmartThings outlets will fit in a standard US duplex outlet? It’s the only power on that wall and it’s covered by cabinets and the stacked appliances. I’d sure hate to move all that crap to discover they won’t fit. The washer and dryer each have a standard grounded plug.

Not sure, but you can fit them with this!

Those are pretty nifty. My toaster wants one! Seriously I’m not sure if I’d like the outlet dangling in the air in a totally inaccessible spot. If I unload the entire cabinet next to the appliances (fairly easy, it only has household cleaning crap in it) and remove the earth quake straps, I think I can move it — it’s a heavier than it needs to be particle board 8 ft tall storage unit with two doors. If it’s empty I can drag it out from in front of the outlet. But I’m thinking something that attaches to the washer and dryer magnetically would be more practical. I’m not adverse to a battery operated sensor if I don’t need to hire a wrecking crew to replace the batteries. There are 2 in of clearance between the right side of the cabinet and the washer dryer stack. There is about 1ft on the other side, but the water connections are such that the washer can’t move another inch. The power cords plug in behind the cabinet. If I ever had to reset the outlet I’d be in a world of hurt because it would literally take a day to move that storage unit. I’ve one of the ST outlets powering my under cabinet light strips in my kitchen and I’ve had to reset it a couple times. I’d just as soon not use WiFi for this setup.