Anyone install a Ring Pro directly to a transformer?


I currently have a Ring Video Doorbell connected directly to a new transformer in the attic. I now have a ring pro I would like to install directly to the transformer. I am reviewing the directions here and I am a little confused: It shows a wire they call the “advanced power kit” yet the wires I got with my pro look like the ones they call the “pro power kit” as shown below on this page:

So, I am a little confused on how to install this directly to a transformer. Also, can the “power kit” (whenever I figure out how/which it is) be installed inline or does it have to connect directly to the transformer. I have contacted Ring directly, but havent gotten a response yet. I am sure they will, but with 3 days off I was hoping to get this all hooked up, so I figured I would check here and see if anyone has done this.

The power kit sits between the transformer and doorbelll (installed inside the old chime hosing). This allows the previous chime to be wired in and triggered by the new doorbell.

I am not using the old chime or old transformer. I am connecting straight to a new transformer and trying to follow these directions:

They are very unclear (to me at least).

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OK, I misunderstood. Do you have the part described? If so, the diagram looks pretty straightforward.

No, I have the one in the second video. They look nothing a like but they are referred to as the same. I will just wait for their slow customer service to get back to me :slight_smile:

Post a picture of the power kit that you have.

I’m having the same issue. It appears the the pro power kit is a newer version but I’m not 100% sure it should be cut and wired inline. When put in a door bell it is inline from the transformer so it should work.

That is what I got.

Yeah, I have no clue how to install this thing and I havent heard back from support in quite a few days to my inquiry.

The power kit pictured is the one that is used with a door chime (mine looks exactly the same).

You need to install without the power kit and, assuming that you have a fuse to put in line, use just one of the clips.

The power kit is only used to trigger the chime.

Just had the same issue. Just ignore the wires labeled front.

Is this how we’re supposed to wire it if we don’t have the advanced power cable to wire directly to a transformer for the ring pro?

I’m also attempting to connect Ring Pro directly to the door bell transformer without an existing mechanical doorbell. Based on my research, the square enclosed Power Kit (also known as the Night Vision Kit) is different than what is actually required, ie. the connector with the fuse casing, known as the Pro Power Cable which is not included in the box of your purchase. This Pro Power Cable needs to be requested from It does look exactly like the image in the instructions for connecting to the ‘Direct to Transform Wiring’ image in the instructions (ie. fuse casing in between the two red wires). This is what I’m going through at the moment with Ring’s support team, which is very good.
Hope this helps.

Your picture shows the incorrect connection for connecting straight to the transformer. The square Power Kit is meant to be connected to an existing mechanical door chime.

The connection directly to the transformer is not with the Pro Power Kit (the square unit), you need the Pro Power Cable (two red wires on either side of a fuse casing). The Pro Power Cable is not included in the box; you need to request this through the Ring Support/Help line or email. Hope this helps.

So I talked to tech support and it looks like this “Pro Power Cable” is basically a resistor that limits to 25-30 Ohms, limiting power to between 20-50 Watts. This is essentially this product:

It looks like you need to make sure you use a resistor like this. Your Ring may work for a while if you don’t, but you run the risk of shorting it due to too much power.

Tech support will send you one within a week if you request it.

“Unlike Ring Video Doorbell, installing Ring Video Doorbell Pro direct to a transformer does not require a resistor.”

Read the above here:

As you can see, the online product description seems to contradict what support told you. I wrote requesting the wire with inline fuse, but I’m still confused as to whether I need it.

Edit: Just as I sent this, I noticed I was confusing “resistor” with “fuse”. My bad.

Hi !
I bought this Ring Pro and it was quite difficult to understand how to connect it without an existent doorbell.
Finally I did some test and I learned.
1.- Transformer: The ring need 24v AC 1Amp, so if you have 110v you will need 110v -> 24v AC 1 Amp. If you have 220v, you will need 220v -> 24v AC 1Amp. Make sure the output power is AC and not DC. I’m Using a 220v -> 24v AC 1Amp.
2.- Power Pro Cable: You can ask for free a Power Pro Cable to the Support, but the Power Pro Cable is just a 1Amp Fuse. So you can buy this at any electrical store, is a very common fuse. You need to connect this fuse to one of the cables of the out (24v) of your transformer. This will prevent to burn your ring if there is a over current.
And thats all !
Good luck !

Hola !
Compre el timbre Ring Pro y fue muy dificil entender como conectarlo sin tener un timbre pre-existente.
Finalmente hice algunas pruebas y aprendi.
1.- Transformador: El timbre funciona con 24v AC 1Amp. Por lo tanto, si tienes voltaje de 110v, necesitas un transformador de 110v -> 24v AC 1Amp. Si tu voltaje es de 220v, necesitas uno de 220v -> 24v AC 1 Amp. Asegurate que el voltaje de salida sea AC (corriente alterna) y NO DC (corriente continua). Yo estoy usando un transformador de 220v -> 24v AC 1 Amp.
2.- Power Pro Cable: Puedes pedir gratis el Power Pro Cable al soporte de, pero basicamente es un fusible de 1 Amper. Esto es muy comun y facil de encontrar en cualquier tienda de electronica. Este fusible debe ir conectado en uno de los cables de salida (24v) del transformador. El fusible se quemara si existe una sobrecorriente evitando que el timbre sufra daño.
Eso es todo !
Buena suerte !

I hope this helps

I had the hardest times with getting the Ring Pro to work properly with my setup. It took me a couple of months to figure out the issue. I finally got them working.

A lot of people brought to my attention that Google+ will be shutting down and that this resource had helped them install “all” types of smart doorbells. I was asked to repost it on this forum, so here it is.

Installing a Ring Pro directly to a transformer (without a chime)

I have been having a hard time getting these ring doorbells to work. I have other ring products and have never had an issue but the doorbells have truly been a headache. My situation is unique in that I have 4 doorbells. If you have only one or 2 then it’s pretty straight forward. I’ve had 3 electricians come out and work on the issues and it seemed to be fixed for a few days and then something happens and they either go offline and have to be restarted frequently, don’t come on, or short out the ring unit completely and brick it. There are no forums on the ring website to with user help. There are however help and support files that were not entirely helpful. They did provide cumulative help to the end goal of figuring out what the problem was.

Again, I want to reiterate that my problem was due to me having 4 doorbells. I’ve had ring doorbells at my previous residence and had no issues whatsoever.

Disclaimer: I am NOT an electrician.

Timeframe: I started this project on June 1st and finally solved it October 21st.

My issue started with a newly constructed home. I asked my builder to install 4 doorbells, the reason, because I wanted to cheaper security alternative to getting ADT, vivint, guardian, etc. So my idea was to put a doorbell on each entrance to cover 3 sides of my home. Front Door, Side door (off garage), Basement door (walkout), and deck door. When they installed it they put a 16 volt 10 VA transformer in, which was fine for the standard doorbell but wasn’t sufficient for the ring doorbells. I hadn’t known that at the time so I just went ahead purchased 4 doorbells and installed them. They worked for about 24 hours and then 2 went offline, so I just kept cutting the power on and off to reset it and sometimes only 1 went offline, sometimes 3. It would work when I reset it for a limited time, I believe, because it didn’t require enough power to exceed the transformer’s capacity. So anytime there was motion or someone rang the doorbell that would be what would cause the affected doorbell offline along with 1 or 2 more. So I got the first electrical company. I explained what I knew at the time to customer service they sent someone out. He put a 16V 24VA in and told me the doorbells needed more power. He was correct in that assumption but what he didn’t know was that it needed way more than what he put in. I ended up having similar issues but seemed a little better. 2nd electrical company came. I explained to them again what happened. This guy said the same thing about more power put in a 16V 30VA. Didn’t work. 3rd guy same thing, he told me that he put the most powerful doorbell transformer he carried in which was an edwards signaling 599 120v/24V 40W . Well it worked great. I had minimal disconnects but what happened was the transformer was extremely hot and when I checked on it there was some obvious melting of the chime box. With all three electricians I did use Ring’s Pro Power kit.

I was extremely tired of paying people to not fix it so I figured I could do a better job. I had the power of the internet with YouTube. So I started researching and it was frustrating that there wasn’t really much information on ring. There were forums on usenet, google groups, and other miscellaneous sites. I gathered from all those websites that I needed a separate transformer for each doorbell. So I purchased all the parts, knockout box, 3 more transformers, wire nuts, etc. I put together my own box. I wired it up, and viola it worked. I had about a week worth of absolutely no issue. Well all of a sudden two of the doorbells stopped working. Didn’t know why at the time but it was because to much power was going to the doorbell. According to Ring your doorbell should be between 3900mv - 4200mv. In the app I was getting above that and it was showing up in red (meaning that was bad) at around 4600+. I did some more research and a few people with the same issue as I (3 or more doorbells) kept mentioning using the pro power kit. That made no sense, the kit was to boost the power and I had more than enough. I finally found a site on Samsung’s Smartthings website (that was odd) entitled, " Anyone install a Ring Pro directly to a transformer? ", it was very informative. What I found was that there are two separate kits. There is a Pro Power kit and a Pro Power cable. 2 different things. The kit is included with the Ring Doorbell and the cable you have to request. The kit boost power with a chime (digital or mechanical) attached and the cable boost power when wiring straight to a transformer without a chime (digital or mechanical). So I requested that pro power cable x 4 and wired them in as described here and everything worked like a charm for a while. There were periods of excess power but was lower than before. I went from above 4600 mv’s to 4300mv’s periodically. So I went ahead and ordered a resistor. This is the model resistor I purchased and I got that information straight from a ring support article here . After I added the resistors all 4 doorbells have been working like a champ for the past month with no issues and with proper voltage. Here are some pictures of the original doorbell and the finished product.

Other things to note:
I have a WiFi system. I originally had Eero, then Orbi, and now Google OnHub/WiFi. If you do not know what they are read this article and it’ll explain it all. I had issues with using the wifi systems and didn’t know why until I talked with a Ring costumer service rep named Sam who was very knowledgeable on the subject. When I called I was using the Orbi (because I got rid of the Eero because it wasn’t working with the ring doorbells. They didn’t connect, they did come up black when they did connect, and if I did get a picture 5 seconds later it would freeze). Same explained to me that ring at that time did not work with most WiFi systems because it recognized each node as a separate router. He explained to me that there would be a fix coming out with the November update that would fix this problem. He also recommended me get Google OnHub/WiFi because that’s the only mesh networking system that worked with the ring doorbell flawlessly. That’s what I purchased. My house is 6500 sq ft and there are a lot of dead spots so I have a combination of OnHub’s and WiFi units.

Article on traditional doorbell wiring with diagrams

Wiring a chime to Nest Hello