I know there are numerous threads on wiring in a 3-way switch. I’ve read through a TON of them the last few days, but still can’t quite seem to figure out if what I’m working with is going to work. I’m trying to install the Leviton switch and matching remote mentioned in the title. This is for my entrance hallway light, so probably the one I want to be able to automate the most. After looking at each switch box and studying/researching the last couple of days I seem to have line-switch-load-switch-1 from the following thread.
But the more I look into it, I seem to have a sort of combination of line-switch-load-switch-1 and line-switch-load-switch-2. I’ll try to explain. I have a 3-gang panel that controls right to left, driveway motion light (single pole), porch light (single pole) and entrance hallway light (3-way). There is a neutral for each switch coming into the box and then pigtailed together. Great!! I NEED a neutral. The line (hot) comes in with the middle switch and pigtails to three other wires which then serve as the line (hot) to each switch. Simple enough, right? The three-way switch then has a red traveler wire and another white that is not marked with electrical tape (hot? load?) running back out of the box. But the wires coming in for the 3-way switch (hallway lights) has the line wire pigtailed and then running back out of the box. This is what has me confused. If the 3-way switch has a line running to it, that would indicate scenario #2 as mentioned above. But if the line running into the box for the 3-way is pigtailed and then ran back out, that would indicate scenario #1. Here are a few pictures of the 3-way switch and box in question.
Now, the remote side switch and box is wired up the same in scenario #1 and #2 with no neutral. So that doesn’t really help me figure out what I’m working with. Here are a few pics of that switch/box.
With all of that being said, what do you guys think I’m working with? Is there a way to get the switch and remote in question to work without a neutral in the remote box and the way the switch box is wired? I have a multimeter, but haven’t taken the step to tear everything apart and start testing,which I will do before wiring everything up. But based on how things look and how the adjoining single pole switches are wired I’m pretty sure the way I explained things is correct. I’m just trying to get a starting point based on suggestions here before I start chasing wires. I would be open to a different switch and remote if it would work simply with what I currently have. But I’m also not intimidated to do some rewiring in each box if necessary to make the Levitons work. I could also do some rewiring in the fixutre if necessary, but if I have to start pulling lines here and there I’ll throw in the towel. Smart bulbs also wouldn’t be an option since the fixture takes 4 of the chandelier type bulbs with the small bases.
Thanks in advance for any help, advice, tips, etc. you guys can provide!!!