Advice on new GE switches not working

Installed 2 switches in master bedroom and they only work a couple times then start reporting wrong and not responding one stops totally can’t even toggle at the switch. Having to reset at the breaker to only have them work a couple times and same thing happens.
This is the wierd thing the one I already had in the same room for months never a glitch is now not responding or has a 30 second reaction time if at all.
This is probably not it but once I added these switches the bedroom accumulated enough automation to add a tablet so I immediately built a bedroom panel using action tiles.
Any advice? Is it possible I got some bad switches and there messing with the other switch?

Perhaps you can try running Repair Z-Wave Network from the ST app.

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If you can’t even toggle manually then the switch is either defective or it’s wired wrong.


Try to reboot the hub, repair the switches and then do a Z-Wave repair.

I once broke a dimmer switch that had previously been installed and working when I was adding an additional switch. (I also was trying to cleanup some 3way wiring that wasn’t working.) It took me several hours of second guessing my wiring until it occurred to me to verify if the existing dimmer switch would work in another circuit. I also confirmed my wiring was sound by swapping in a manual switch. I ended up with a bad dimmer that was reporting fine to ST, but not physically switching current.

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How do you supply the neutral to each switch?

This is what I have discovered so far.
The culprit is the ceiling fan switch, it works for about 5 times, then stops reporting and can’t even controler it at the toggle before I have cycle power off at breaker the breaker.
Switches are only 25ft from hub and the one I have never had issues with is in same room by restroom hall further from hub.
Once it stops reporting it causes other switches to act up.
I changed it out and new switch does same thing.

It’s in same j box and is ceiling fan on right light switch on left. Power, neutral and ground come into box then both smart switches share a neutral with the one neutral that goes to the fan light combo.
The power goes to each switch and then light load to one switch and fan load to other.
It seems the fan switch has a safety built into it and can’t handle the fan load and trips. I thought I read it can handle 15 amps. It’s just a basic ceiling fan. Cause once it stops working threw SmartThings or manually I have cycle power and it starts working again. 2 same switches doing same thing.
Is it to much load for the switch??

All of the neutrals should be shared. Are you possibly daisy chaining the neutral between the swicthes? Can you take a picture of the wiring and share it here?

Yes sir they are all going to one wire nut. I can post picture tonight.

The ceiling fan and light are 4 wires on left.
Red is light, Black is the fan, then the neutral.
Middle wire is panel from breaker. White neutral, black hot.
So all four neutrals are together, Light/fan as one, 2 switches and from panel.
Hots total 3 wire wire nuted 2 switches on both line sides.
Then red wire load for light switch
And black load for fan.

I can’t imagine having 2 bad switches.

I returned the 2 switches and the 2 new ones seem to be working alot better. And bought a dimmer for one of the questionable switches and its been fine. I did each new switch 10 times on at toggle and 10 times threw SmartThings app. before I put cover plates on. I only lost communication once and had to reset breaker.
So adding 3 new switches and or removing the old switches has made my zwave devices threw the house go intermittently unavailable and become undependable. Not sure how or what to do. I live in a small home one story every 20 ft. Is a switch or outlet.
Any advice. This thread I started has been over a week night mare. I have made a path to my outdoor breaker panel and my wife well u know how that goes when the switch doesn’t turn on the ceiling fan.

I assume you’ve done a z-wavereoair since installing?

Yea, not sure what it all means?

I just did a reboot from IDE as well.

Uh, yeah. That’s not good. Especially the device [12] that doesn’t have a name. I’d email that screen shot to and see what they think. Something isn’t right.

It became worse overnight. Woke up to all switches and outlets in the house of line and even the settings on my front door lock changed to alert when open instead of alarm force.
Not a good feeling. Very disruptive to house when tvs dont come on, fans dont turn off, front door doesnt lock etc. walking outside to panel and resetting by cycling breakers.
Any ideas would be appreciated. I will submit a request to support but that wont be until Monday.
Thanks in advance.

I’m sure that’s very frustrating. :disappointed_relieved: Sounds like you’re overloading the circuit. Then when one of the switches which has been identified as a repeater goes out, the other switches can’t get their messages through.

The specs are on the box in the picture in your first post. It does say 15 A, but that’s assuming that it’s only controlling the fan. Since it sounds like you daisychained everything, it may be that your fan is right about at the Max for the switch and then the other stuff coming through the circuit is overloading it. Or it may be that you ended up connecting a neutral to two different circuits, which can cause really flaky results. But I leave that for @Navat604 or @jhamstead or one of the other wiring experts in the community to comment on.

that would make sense, but same circuit lights never flicker. however last night i returned 3 switches and installed the 2 same way and mechanically they are working fine so far others would stop even working manually. Very happy. The only thing i can think of is at is really a far reach is I was over tightening the terminations causing possibly something buckling or twisting inside. Cause come on three bad switches not realistic. The new ones I tightened snug but not to the point of the screw stripping. Saftey OCD had to sit in the passenger seat. I dont know. Happy to report they have not skipped a beat manually.
Now my all my zwave device dont respond to the app. however report accurate.
This is my last zwave repair. I cant find 7 in my devices in IDE could 7 be my hall add on switch. Cause I dont see it anywhere I do see the hall switch its added to but not add on switch. I was going to delete it but thought I would ask first.

Thanks for helping me threw this.

If it’s a GE device, it can’t be an add on switch as those do not have their own zwave radios and are invisible to SmartThings. They just communicate with their master through a physical traveler wire.

It could be one of the old switches that you returned.

K thanks I am going to use one of the old threads and get rid of the “ghost” I meant 12 i typed 7 above.

Oh, yeah, 12 is definitely a ghost since it doesn’t have a name.