240v 20+Amp Outlet or load controller

I am trying to find a outlet or load controller that can control a PTAC AC / heat unit in my bonus room.

the current outlet is 240v and the unit is more tan 20 amps. its on its own double breaker. I just need something to talk to smartthings. I can wire it up my self.

There is Aeon Labs ZW078-A Z-Wave Heavy Duty Smart Energy Appliance Switch, which has a community device type here:
I have no experience with this device, but on paper it should work for you.

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I use the device @bravenel mentioned on my dryer, it works great.

Here is a 30A ZigBee solution with metering http://smartenit.com/product/zbmlc30/. Not sure if there is device type for it but If your willing to take a stab at putting one together I will be happy to help. At $180 its a bit pricey but at least you have a ZigBee option if that is important to you.

Isn’t the unit already controlled via a relay? Any existing thermostat already talks to said relay to turn on and off the unit.
I imagine tapping into that circuit would be much easier verses finding such a large current home automation relay.

it is put that thermostat is inside the unit somewhere. Would entail takin the PTAC out of the wall opening it up and assuming I know what im doing.

I found the http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-ZW078-A-Z-Wave-Appliance/dp/B00MBIRF5W

Im not sure out cutting into the PTAC units plug and hard wiring it to the above controller.

To avoid cutting the power cord, you could create a new 240v outlet for the unit to plug into, and a power cord to plug into the existing outlet. They you wire this switch to the new outlet and new power cord. Parts to do this are readily available at hardware stores.

Hmm. Im not sure i follow.

What i tried doing was. Running ac power ditectly to heavy duty aeon switch and then running new wire from aeon switch to existing 240v outlet.

But i get no power to switch or unit/outlet. Should i be using L1 or L2 For hot connection?

Also do i need an air break switch per the instructions?

Looking at the picture. I see you have only neutral and only one line wire hooked up. You need both L1 and L2 to get 220v. As for an air break switch. That’s depend on what you are using the Aeon switch for. If you are using it for outdoor applications then yes.

I realized that right after i sent this note. thanks for your help.

240 has 2 hots. duh.

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@mattjfrank how did you hook that to your dryer? Also how does it notify you when the dryer stops etc??

The line running to the dryer I cut in half and put this in the middle. I’m running smartapp laundry done to get notifications where the dryer is finished. Same for washer.

@mattjfrank can you put a pic on how you wire it? So, I can’t have a guide that exactly what I want to do also. Thanks for the quick reply.

If you have any doubts you should probably consult an electrician.

Here is a pic of mine.

are you getting energy readings? I seem get 0 KWS/H when the Unit is on and running. Im thinking maybe its because KWs are to high a reading and I need to do watts or something derivative of KWS. Does anyone know how to change the metric that is reported by the Switch?

I’m using this device type

And here is how it reports/looks in ST App

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Wow, I need to do some research, i assume I should copy and paste that somewhere in the IDE?

Follow these instructions, it’s a device type. Make sure when you copy the code you copy the entire contents of

Thanks do I need to unpair and re connect the device?

You shouldn’t need to but if you have any issues it’s a good troubleshooting step.