Your fan controller is controlling the frequency supplied to the whole fixture, both light and fan motor. When you make the fan turn faster or slower, you’re affecting the current supplied to the light as well. I would guess this could potentially damage either your bulbs (particularly if they’re LED) or the Hunter controller supplied with the fan.
If there isn’t another wire already installed in the wall to power the light separately, the only easy option you have is the Hampton Bay Wink-enabled fan controller. This would replace the manufacturer-supplied controller and give you separate control of the fan and lights with a handheld remote and via SmartThings. When installing that, you would remove the GE fan control and either put your dumb switch back in the circuit or wire the fan to always have power. Just note that you’ll need a Zigbee repeater (smart plug) in the same room as the range on the fan controller is very short.
Can anyone tell me if they have issues with these switches running warm? have one switch that runs about 10-15 degrees warmer one in another room… a little over 100 degrees when measured on the right side of the switch with an IR thermometer. More details here: Which on/off z-wave switch can handle ceiling fans?
how hot do peoples switches normally run? has anyone checked?
I have two different fans controlled with these switches. They were both working fine. Now one of them won’t obey speed commands correctly. Press “low” and it says “adjusting” but then goes right back to medium. Press refresh, and it goes to high. Use the slider, and the fan will not go below 50%, no matter where you set the slider, a couple of seconds later it returns to 50%.