Z-Wave GFI outlet?

Can anyone point me at a z-wave controlled gfi outlet. TIA

Nope

Best option is to put GFCI in line before Z-wave outlet

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There are none. A zwave outlet has to always have some power so that the radio can hear the next “on” command from the network, while a GFI outlet has to be able to cut power completely.

So you have three alternatives, and what will be allowed under code depends on exactly where you’re going to place the device, and may vary depending on your local code.

One) install a regular GFI outlet and then plug a Z wave pocket socket into it. That way the GFI outlet still controls the current, but you can send a network command to the pocket socket to turn something on or off which is plugged into it.

Two) if allowed by code, put a zwave inwall micro on the circuit upstream of the outlet. That way the GFI outlet still controls the current at the specific location, but you can use the micro further upstream to turn it on and off by network command.

  1. if allowed by code, put a Z wave outlet in place and then put a GFI Relay upstream on the circuit. This will probably not be allowed in a bathroom or kitchen, because there is some concern that the GFI would not trip quickly enough to keep the person safe. It may be allowed for a bedroom or living room, but again check local code.

@Navat604 or one of the other electrical experts in the community can say more.

  1. is obviously the simplest solution, but 2) may also be workable. 3) is trickier, and again depends on local safety codes.

Thanks RLDreams and JDRoberts. The in wall switch seems like it might be the best if they van handle high enough loads (curling iron and hairdryer etc.). You wouldn’t know of one rated for say ten or 15 amps would you?

There are some you just have to check the specs on each. You’ll need 15A for a typical hair dryer.

Aeon makes a heavy duty that can handle up to 40.

Linear/GoControl makes one that handles 20.

There are a couple of other brands as well, you just have to check the specs.

@Cascade1911
Actually, there is a fourth option. Use a GFCI breaker in the panel on the circuit that powers the bathroom and your options widen.
Be aware of the fact that anything powered from a GFCI protected circuit (either by breaker or outlet) will loose power when protection trips and z-wave control becomes non functional

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That is a good point Daniel and one I am considering. The problem with that option is the same circuit feeds the master bedroom as well as the two bathrooms. Loosing both bathrooms if the GFI trips isn’t the end of the world but I’d rather not loose the master bedroom as well. Still, in that I don’t remember the last time I had to reset the GFI other than testing it from time to time does give a point in favor of the circuit GFI. Still looking at the in wall switch option. I’ve found 10 amp switches and you, JDRoberts have pointed out a 40 amp. You wouldn’t by any chance have a link to a 15 or 20 amp switch would you?
Thanks all for the help.

http://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/smart-switches-and-plugs/products/zooz-z-wave-plus-mini-plug-zen07 rated 13 amp.
I also do not believe you need anything with higher rating. The breaker will be 20 amp and that will take care of all current in both bathrooms and you should only use the switch for only a local (one location) load.
Remember also that rating is for switching load. Once the contact is made, more current can go through it. Problem could appear when switching under load due to arcing.
A 40 amp switch is useless when protected by a 20 amp breaker. Also, you’ll never be able to use more current as either the breaker will trip or the AWG12 gauge cable in the wall will catch fire due to overheating.

Just in case there is some confusion. If you have a 15 amps circuit breaker. You have to replace it with a 15 amp or lower GFCI breaker. Don’t change it to a 20 amp unless you know your wire gauge.
As for the 40amp and 20amp switch. There is absolutely nothing wrong with having it downstream of the 15 amps circuit breaker. Having an under rated switch will be a fire harzard due overheating before the circuit breaker trip.
The Aeon 40 amp switch unfortunately is only for 220v so it won’t work with your circuit.
Most hair dryer have a rating of 1800 watts so at 110 volts. That’s around 15 amps so find an in wall switch at 15 amps or higher.

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