Z Wave Receptacle that is GFCI

(Bob Blakey) #1

I was attempting to install my new SmartThings receptacle and I noticed that it had a few to many wires attached to it then I was expecting. So I did some research (not being the master electrication that I am sure some of you are.Anyways, it appears it is a GCFI receptacle. Anyone know of any Z Wave GFCI receptacles? Thanks

(Matt Garfield) #2

I second this request. I’m working on buying my house and I just had a home inspection done. There are a few outlets that need to be replaced with GFCI outlets to be brought up to code, and I was hoping to just replace them with GFCI Z-Wave Outlets. A quick internet search did produce much more than hits on other forums with people asking for the same.

Does anyone know definitively if there are not yet any Z-Wave AC outlets with GFCI capabilities?

(Solardave1) #3

I looked into this a while ago and couldn’t find any. My solution was to wire the zwave switches on the load side of the GFCI.

(Brandon) #4

I know this is an older topic, but I’m also on the lookout for one of these to help extend my Zwave network out to my mailbox and potentially utilize for Xmas lights.

(Bob Blakey) #5

Bump, in case something has come out since July.

(Beckwith) #6

I don’t think anyone could create a GCFI that also includes a controllable switch because the code requirements are contradictory.

(Brandon) #7

You just make the GFCI override whatever is being controlled.

(Pizzinini) #8

You could put a micro smart switch behind the GFCI outlet. http://aeotec.com/z-wave-in-wall-switches/848-micro-ses-2e-manual-instructions.html
I want to do this for the outlet on my front door. I would like to turn it off when I am not home. Reason is that any thief could use the outlet to connect powertools to drill my locks open.

I will report back if it is working.


This. :arrow_up::blush:

By definition: a GFCI can kill all power to the receptacle. (That’s its purpose.)

By definition: a Zwave receptacle always has some power so it can receive an On command (that its purpose.)

Although you can move a GFCI further up the circuit (towards the box), it might not be to code because most specify the cut off be a specific physical distance from a sink/shower. And you have to still leave easy physical access to it so it can be reset after it trips and an inspector can test both conditions.

You can move the zwave further up the circuit using the micro relays, but then you’re in danger of zwave controlling multiple devices instead of just one. And it’s only on/off.

The easiest way, although not the most aesthetic, is to leave a regular GFCI receptacle in place and use a plug in zwave/Zigbee. This way the GFCI is still physically positioned correctly but you have full parameter control of the
individual outlet.

@pizzinini , I know that wouldn’t solve your use case for the outside receptacle. If it was me, I would just put a locking cap over the outlet. It’s pretty likely that a weather hardened outdoor receptacle will block most of a zwave signal, that would be a tricky install.

(Aaron Paluzzi) #10

Actually you have a few options. I was looking into this for my laundry. There are more reasons to have a zwave outlet than just power control. These devices also allow you to do power monitoring. So you could see if your washer and dryer (if you have a gas model) are running or if they have stopped.

To enable GFCI you can do one of three things.

  1. As suggested have a GFCI receptical and use appliance plugins.
  2. Install a GFCI in a quad box and slave the zwave outlet to it
  3. Replace your circuit breaker with a GFCI breaker, and install the zwave socket normally.

As for the security solution pizzinini suggested I think you’re stressing too much. Battery operated drills are as cheap as plug in drills and just as powerful. If you wanted the external zwave outlet to control lighting or decorations that would make more sense.

(James) #11

I realize this is an old topic. But first, you will need to find out what your code is in your area. The code isn’t always updated to accommodate smart devices in all areas of the country. So the following suggestions may or may not work for you.

Option 1:
How I would approach, it would be to see if you can purchase GFCI breakers for your panel. By doing this, you can avoid using any GFCI outlets as it will make the entire circuit GFCI.

Option 2:
Install a GFCI outlet on the first leg of the power chain coming from the panel. Meaning find the first outlet that is connected from the breaker to that run of outlets/switches. If you isolate the rest of the feed using the GFCI outlet, then the rest of the devices on the wire run will be protected by GFCI.

Again check your local code. There could be a requirement that you still have a GFCI outlet even if you install a GFCI breaker.

Obviously, it would work just fine, but you certainly don’t want to get a code violation. If you truly don’t know then call your local government and talk with someone in that department.

This site has a good description of what the differences are between the GFCI breakers and outlets.



I’m looking to setup a few items on smart things. You seem to know a great deal about this so I’m hoping you, or someone else, can help.

One of the end devices is a submerged pump in my pool. Due to this it’s very important that the GFCI outlook works as planed. In the event of a short in the punp will the circuit break if I have a GFCI outlet, then an outdoor smart switch followed by the pump? It would look like this:

GFCI —> ST---->Pump

Thanks for your help.

(James) #13


In your case, I would use what is called a Blank Face GFCI. And I would put this closer to the pump. Be certain you do not exceed the Amp rating of the GFCI.

Here is an example of what I am referring to. Please note that I am not a licensed electrician and my advice is that of someone with experience. If you are unsure please seek the advice of a licensed professional. I do not take responsibility for anything you do or try.


Hope this helps.