Will the Gocontrol gdz000 work for my garage?

I measured the voltage at the wall mounted garage door switch (which has 3 buttons, open/close, light and lock) it has 1 wire going in and 1 wire going out, the voltage is a constant 24v when I press the button the voltage drops to about 3v and that signals the door opener to operate.

My first thought was to use a smart outlet wired to a 120v relay and have the wire that runs from the wall mounted switch go through the relay, that way the relay would cut the power to the signal going to the door opener. But that didn’t work.

Is this typical of all garage doors? How are people using a smart outlet and a relay to signal the door opener?

And how does the gocontrol gdz000 work any differently than a relay? I am obviously not understanding something and I don’t want to buy 2 gdz000’s if that isn’t going to work.

My garage door opener is a chamberlain lift master model # 41AB050-2

Are you saying that you have 24V across the two switch terminals?

Yes, I have a constant 24v DC across the 2 terminals, when I press the wall mounted button the voltages drops to between 1-3 volts.

I have a different brand opener, which has 12V across the terminals.

I’m pretty sure that the goControl just acts as a relay to short those two terminals. When you install it you’re attaching the two leads from the goControl to the terminal strip on the opener where the two wires from the remote is attached.

You may not wish to try this, but if you short the two conductors either at the remote or the opener, and the door either opens or closes as appropriate, it should work. This is not an official test . . .it’s just my thought about how to do a quick test. On my doors, shorting the terminals does operate the door properly. Yours may differ, of course.

You might start by contacting z-wave.linear@nortekcontrol.com which is their tech support. There have also been a number of posts here about goControl compatibility. If you haven’t read them, I’d start there as well.

The relay in the GDZ is a dry contact relay. The voltage won’t be an issue you’ll have to see if your model uses a digital panel or not to be compatible.

See this post for a list of compatible garage door openers:

I was following an online tutorial that wasn’t very clear https://24-7-home-security.com/how-to-make-a-smart-garage-door-opener-that-works-with-any-protocol/ and after measuring 24 volts across the terminals and seeing the voltage drop when the button was pressed, I assumed the button cut the voltage and that signaled the opener to operate, so I bought a 120v relay and wired it to be normally closed and wired it inline between the wall mounted switch and the door opener, I then used a smart outlet to control the relay which I thought would break the circuit and signal the opener to operate. But I was wrong.

I was looking at the pictures in the article and realized there was a red and black wire on the relay and in another picture there was a red and black wire going to both door opener terminals and I realized he was just shorting the two terminals to operate the door opener, and then you responded confirming that, so when I got home from work I shorted the two terminals and the door opens and closes, so now I am back to my original plan of just using the relay.

. . . except you don’t want it inline. You want it parallel so that it’s briefly shorting the terminals. Also, it should be normally open and then close briefly to short.