I started early on with the V1 system on Kickstarter and wasn’t very happy with it but I’m ready to give it another try with V2. I’d like to use a couple of Multi-Sensors to let us know when our clothes are done. Does that work well? How are you notified when the washer or dryer are done?
I think a lot of people use power monitoring devices (wall warts mainly)… When the load drops below a certain level for a set amount of time, ST can be configured to send you a reminder.
My machine is on its last legs so I’m fairly well decided that I’ll be investing in one of the new Samsung washing machines for full integration.
I have a good friend who works for Samsung UK, he gets to buy 3 appliances a year at heavily discounted rates and he said I could have one out of his quota
Still not cheap though even with the discount, so I need to do a lot more resarch!!
Ah thanks Robin, the problem is my dryer is 220v.
There are plenty of 220v wall warts with power monitoring.
The U.K. Smartthings outlet for one…
Don’t know about the UK, but in the US I’m having trouble finding one. Maybe in the UK 220VAC is normal and you don’t just run 60A appliances on it? I did see a link to a 220VAC 40A switch with power monitoring, but can’t find much about it other than the $149 price tag.
In the UK all of our sockets are 220-240v and max 13A.
Appliances sold in the UK do not exceed this except for ovens which have their own dedicated supply from the main fuse board.
What kind of appliances do you have that are 60A???
Yea I don’t know why no one is making a 220v monitor in the US. The closest thing I’ve found are gadgets that monitor an entire house and are “supposed” to be able to differentiate the difference between the appliances in your house. I bough this one and so far it isn’t doing a very good job of letting me know when the washer is running and it confuses the dryer with the microwave lol. They say it takes about a month to learn your house.
Sense Energy Monitor
In the US, most power circuit are 110VAC with 15A or 20A breakers. A microwave or dishwasher or coffee maker or clothing washer will plug into that. Bigger stuff is 220VAC, at 30, 40 or even 60 amps. AC compressors, clothing dryers, water heaters, electric stove are good examples.
UPDATE: I just read your post again. Many of these appliances are supposed (per electrical codes) to have a dedicated circuit. Most people who remodel their kitchen learn that now, they need a dedicated circuit for the microwave and dishwasher even though these are ordinary 110VAC appliances. The 220VAC appliances, like a stove or clothing dryer, absolutely have dedicated circuits.
@RobinWinbourne remember with AC circuits, voltage and current have an inverse relationship. when you put 220VAC ito a transformer that changes it into 110VAC, you get twice as much current.
I get that, but the OP was referring to 220v 60A… That’s one hell of an appliance!!
Our ovens in the UK are just 20A… And A washer dryer will never exceed 13A!!
I didn’t realise the US used both voltages… Interesting. Do both voltages come into the home seperately from the street transformers or do you have additional transformers inside the homes?
There is one service entrance. 220VAC is a pair of 110VAC feeds. So you can go from either of the two “hots” to a neutral for 110VAC or you can use both “hots” for 220VAC. This is two phase service.
Gotcha… We have a 3 phase distribution grid (like most countries) but UK residential properties normally only get one phase to the meter.
I guess we don’t normally use the likes of AC so just don’t have a need.
I built a home for my parents 15 years ago and my dad insisted on having a 3 phase supply (cost a fortune). He was worried about gas prices and thought the future would be electric heating. He was probably right for the distant future, but those spare two phases never got used in his lifetime!!
House was also wired such that he could switch to the phase of his choice should one line ever suffer a power cut… That (expensive) feature never got used either!
I like that he was thinking ahead though!
I use a multisensor on my washing machine. When the cycle is complete, it flashes a lamp twice and my android control pad announces it. It works well and reliably.
I don’t see the dryer as needing it… and it has a loud buzzer. If you forget the dryer, the clothes are still dry. Forget the washer, and the clothes get musty.
I’ve been using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YTCZZF0 which is GE Z-Wave Smart Switch for Large Appliances, 40 Amp, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor. Using it for a window AC unit, and it is great at turning the unit on and off, and giving power usage. It would be pretty easy to wire for a washer or dryer. Able to do 120 or 240 depending on how you wire it.
For the washer, I’m using a smart plug, and CoRE set when power drops below a certain point to notify me. Works flawlessly. For the Dryer, I’m using a Multipurpose Sensor and CoRE to detect both vibration and temperature. Vibration alone wasn’t as reliable because sometimes the sensor would go “inactive” for a minute a few times during the cycle. But with the temp and vibration both it is probably about 95% reliable.
I have a Wemo Insight Switch. It’s supposed to notify me when the cycle is done and the power consumption drops below an adjustable set point. It works about once in every 100 washes
@RobinWinbourne, I was going to buy the Samsung “Smart” Washer too, but the reviews I read about the practicality of it were kind of horrible. The cycle monitoring was the most used feature (when users could actually get their phones synced properly). I decided to save a couple hundred bucks and just get a “dumb” washer.
It’s a Christmas surprise for the wife that arrives this Monday, so, I think I’m going for the metered power solution.
Others have noted that Multi-Sensors don’t really perform well in modern washer/dryer “on” state monitoring, which is why the power meter solution was presented.
It may be possible to use one of these instead. The clamps wrap around the wires of your dryer and sense the wattage flowing through. I don’t know the specifics, but I linked another thread that briefly mentioned it. Maybe @Mike_Maxwell can chime in on this.
Aeon Power Meter. Can’t go wrong with these CoRE pistons. I tried the Multisensor and way too false positives.