I have bought a Tuya Zigbee 3.0 switch a few months ago from China and it finally arrived today. Being inpatient as i am, of course i had to install it tonight. On the device it self, it states both zigbee and wifi for some reason and it has no button for pairing. I can verify that the device is indeed zigbee and bellow you can find both a link to buy and a couple of pictures from the whole process.
One thing to note is that this is not metering switch but it does run locally using the zigbee switch native dht from Samsung.
€ 6,05 52%OFF | Tuya ZigBee 3.0 Wifi Switch Module With Smart Light Switch Module Smart Life/Tuya Remote Control Work With Alexa Google Home
According to the comments in the Aliexpress link, you have to turn it on and off 5 times until you hear an alarm like sound, and that’s when it goes to pairing mode.
I previously had cases like this that to pair/unpair a zigbee device with no apparent switches/lights, its just a on/off exercise of 4 or 5 times (that’s why I keep a lab on/off switch with L-N-G cables handy to do this )
Thank you for this.
Newbie here - planning to make the transition from the simpler ‘Hue smart-bulbs and switches’ to wired switches based on Zigbee 3.0
Please may I ask if this switch continues to work well after these 6 - 7 months?
I am thinking of getting this similar model (likely from China):
Mine needs to go into an existing 2-gang box, and wired into one of the two gangs (the one that is one-way, as the other is two-way). I’ll attach a photo. Let me know if you have any thoughts or concerns to share.
There are no 2 gang options for local execution currently available with Smartthings. As local automations are just arround the corner, i would urge you to reconsider.
Hi @Andremain,
I have one of these with smartthings and another with tuya in another installation of house family. They work fine.
I was paired about the defect with the dth zigbee switch power and It matched with the fingerprint. 0051, it is power meter id and 0B04 the cluster.
It sends me consumption 0.0w, because I have it without connecting the relay. I only use the change of state to detect power failures.
That double switch model without neutral is not valid for your two-way switch. You would have to modify the wiring to connect it like the diagram in the Amazon photo.
You could put in that box an individual switch without neutral for the 1-way switch, which admits voltage on input S1.
In the other box where the other combined switch will be, if it is the one that the common wire goes to the bulb, you could put another simple switch without neutral.
Dear Mariano,
Thank you for your advice and response.
I was intending to use that “1-way Zigbee model” to only control the single bulb on the 1-way part of the circuit on that 2 gang box (and leave the other connection for the other gang untouched). It sounds like what from you are saying is that I need to also do something on another box.
It appears that my understanding of how these devices are wired might be lacking. I’ll have to think a bit more about this before proceeding.
I understand that you do not have a neutral wire in the junction box. If you had neutral it is easier.
When you use 2 two-way switches for a bulb, you just have to put the smart siwtch in one of them, normally in the box where the switch have the common wire with the output line to the bulb.
Thank you again Mariano.
I was a bit confused about your comment, because I searched for that Cobeky model on Amazon by looking for ‘1-way’ (not 2-way). I only need Zigbee control of the 1-way circuit (with the single bulb).
The 2-gang box I have has the connector points labelled L1, L2 and COM on the top and the same again (L1, L2 & COM) on the bottom. So I thought the two wires at the top (yellow and black, with red sleeves) might be for the 1-way circuit to the single bulb that I am trying to control with Zigbee.
I think I must be confused about how the connections work in this 2-gang box. In any case, the wiring diagram for the Cobeky model on Amazon doesn’t fit with what I see in this box!
To make sure that each wire is to be measured with a multimeter.
That double switch may be like this, but you have to measure to ensure it.
If you have doubts, it is better to consult an electrician.
Looks like you have a 2-Gang switch with one gang wired one way and one two-way and using older colours. The L1 and L2 pair with the COM on the opposite side of the switch, as indicated for you in the photo. Basically they are physically underneath the associated rocker switch.
The wiring diagram you see on Amazon shows an alternative way of wiring two way switches. Your wiring seems to do it the classic way with a three core and earth cable (red, yellow and blue) linking to the other switch (so COM is connected to COM on the other switch, similarly L1 and L2).
You’d need to check it with a multimeter or a competent person, but where you have two cables in the same hole, the red should be your Live and the other one, which should be black with a red sheath, should be your Switched Live.
Having said that I see you are actually interested in the one way side. That will be the group on the right hand side of the photo that just uses COM and L1, outlined in blue. The red wire in COM should be the Live and the red sheathed black in L1 should be the switched live.
If you can’t fathom out what is going on I’d strongly recommend getting assistance.
I’ve not used any modules so far because everything I’ve done is in addition to the permanent wiring and uses removable devices. Also none of my light switches have space for modules in them.
Subject to it actually fitting (it seems quite big), and the usual caveats you have with no neutral, I’d imagine it would do the job. I can’t really comment on the dodginess. Most devices not marketed under a brand name I recognise make me a bit uneasy. Doesn’t stop me using them though.
Hi guys, interesting reading. Just want to get your thoughts in these:
Both 2-way ZigBee 3.0. A few seller say both these are smartthings compatible, but when you did deeper it’s not clear if they are still requiring a tuya hub connected to smartthings.
If I’m reading your post right, even if I get these connected to smartthings, I’ll only have 1 gang, is that right? What device handler would you recommend I use for them?
Essentially I have a large smartthings house and would like to use these as range extenders to bridge all my devices. Otherwise I’d just use fibaro ones, which I also have and work great…
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