Tricky switched RGBW installation



Hi Everyone,

I have a socket under my island, controlled by a switch on the wall, intended to drive some island lighting (this is a socket my electrician installed at my request so I could easily retrofit under-island lights). This just has a live and neutral loop going to it. I also have access to a socket on the ringmain on the island. My goal is to install a Fibaro RGBW controller on the island to drive some LED tape lighting.

Like this…

What I’d like to figure out is how to have the wall switch turn the lights on/off (I’ll control brightness and colour from an app). I think I can do this:

Which would put 12v through the wall switch using the existing neutral and switched live wires, and obviously isolating it from the 240v live (!).

Would this work and would the switch toggle on/off in tandem with the app…?

@RobinWinbourne ? :slight_smile:

(Mark C) #2

can you not just put the 240/110v switchsed supply into the 12v transformer, the way the switch will isolate the transformer as well. normally these come back on on the state they were turned off from?

(Simon Tether) #3

If wired with the PSU in the switched socket, when the switch was off the app wouldn’t be able to turn the lights on ?

(Mark C) #4

ho often are you going to do it manually vs how often via the app?


I want to be able to control it via the app or via the switch at any time. If I wire it as you suggest Mark, the automation functionality via z-wave will be offline.

(Robin) #6

Assuming the wall switch is a toggle switch, you will need to change parameter 14 to ‘21845’ which will allow a single toggle switch to control all 4 channels at the same time (RGBW, Toggle, Brightness Mode).

By default, the unit wants 4nr momentary switches, but you don’t have enough wires to pull that one off.

The manual is very vague on parameter 14, but Fibaro provide a calculator here:

Your last sketch is correct btw. :+1:

(Ben Erkens ) #7

Make the wall switch a Smart switch.

Then you can toggle it by hand and by anything the SmartThings could do.

Grtn Ben


HI @RobinWinbourne, re parameter 14, would the settings for each of the four ports be (in binary):
0000 - nothing
0000 - nothing
0000 - nothing
= 0101 0000 0000 0000 which is 20480 in decimal?
I’d then wire the switch into port one?

(Robin) #9

I don’t think so… the description for brightness mode stated single switch… and all channels will need to be in brightness mode.

Use the calculator they provide… I wouldn’t try doing the binary conversions yourself.