A Press of the button on the back of my smart things hub seem to fix everything for me
Too bad the button doesn’t fix the cloud
Maybe you think I am coming on strong here but this is one of your customers and the story is featured by Smartthings. I wonder how he was doing tonight: https://blog.smartthings.com/stories/a-new-world-for-max/
Frustrated possibly? Just like many of your customers!
Never mind me. Keep it working for people like that young man and others for whom a working system like this means independence.
Every time you plan a change or service or process ask yourself, how will this affect those who need us most?
If your not really interested or its not worth the effort to plan this out to be 100% then please sell the company to someone who will either take it apart and we can all move on or who will run it like it should be run.
I don’t want to hear about how many days its been up YAY… I want to know its always up and going to work, so does Max.
Good news. My bedroom light is now working.
I’ll keep everyone posted if the status changes…
Not that simple, unfortunately. I have several sirens around the house including some that require a ladder to reach. They all plug in with built-in battery backup. The point is to make them difficult to disable if someone broke into the house.
I understand that completely.
Here’s an idea… small RF switches embedded in the siren just like the toggle switch would be. You then have an RF remote (Harmony) that when you press a button, it turns the sirens on/off.
Something like this… depending on how many sirens you have.
Just out of curiosity… Are you sure that If the SmartThings cloud is down your siren is going to come on?
It may be a silly question… but is Smart Home Monitor a local execution qualified SmartApp?
If so, then if the intrusion sensors (contact, motion) and the siren are also qualified for local execution, then the alarm will likely be able to sound when the SmartThings cloud is down.
The problem: How do you shut it off.
Suggestion: Are Minimotes also local qualified devices? Hide one somewhere and have a button press tied to disabling the alarm? Hmmm… but what SmartApp can do that? It also must be qualified to run with local execution!
See the problem?
Minimotes are eligible to run locally if they are used with the button press option in smart lighting. But as far as I know that’s it.
Last I heard, routines were not eligible to run locally, so you couldn’t use those to turn off the siren or change SHM status. But maybe that’s changed?
The mobile app cannot talk to the hub if the cloud is unavailable.
@slagle might know if any part of SHM runs locally and if there is a way to disarm it when the cloud is unavailable.
Oh–if it’s a zwave siren that supports association, you could set up a direct association between a Z wave switch in the same room and the siren and that should work even if the cloud is unavailable. You might be able to do that with a minimote as well, I honestly don’t remember. But if it’s me, that’s what I would do. That method would work even if the hub itself died.
OK, I checked.
The minimote supports zwave association.
The Aeon Labs siren supports zwave association.
So I think you could set up a minimote so that one of its buttons would turn off the siren even if the smartthings hub were not available.
I’ll update this post in a minute with a couple of the other popular siren models.
update looks like the Fortrezz and Linear/GoControl sirens do not support association, so you would need them to be local to the hub and have some way of getting the hub to tell them to turn off.
The Everspring siren does support Association, so I think it also can be set up to be shut off by another Z wave device that supports association.
If you wanted to secure this, you could put the switch that turns them off inside a lock box with a combination.
Just wondering, but why locks and a garage opener? Both are controlled locally (without automation). Are there reports of locks opening without commands to do so? (I know there reports of locks not closing despite a command to do so; but, that just requires checking them so the security risk is small, though the annoyance would be large.)
Agreed re the rest of your security system. But you probably want cell and battery backup no matter what for that.
I despise sirens. I don’t trust my cable company or the cloud. I would not install something critical to WAF that she or I could not turn off if those things went down. Still enjoy my ST because my V2 Smart Lighting ran fine during the outage. The only effect was some odd push notifications easily ignored.
Still would like to hear the cause and what is being done to make sure this doesn’t happen again.
Deja vu! Ground hog day…Glad the local processing had no hiccups. #blissfullyunaware
No. The problem yesterday was that it was going up and down, which meant there was a chance the alarm would process but that I’d be unable to quickly send a silence command.
I had this issue multiple times last November and worked with support on it. They verified that it was happening, but never found a reason or a fix. This was a standard lock using standard code, nothing custom. After two weeks, for safety reasons, we switched the lock to a different non-smartThings system and had no more problems with it.
Several other people have occasionally reported garage doors opening when they weren’t supposed to.
At my house, we would be more likely to notice the problem, because I spend most of my life in one of two rooms and one of those is the one with the lock. Also, my service dog is trained to go to the door when it unlocks as he is the one who physically opens the door.
For this reason, I’m pretty sure that the unlocking never happened between November 2014 and October 2015, but did happen multiple times after that.
I would say now that a smartthings – connected lock/garage door is unlikely to open itself, but judging just from forum reports is more likely to do so than one controlled by Insteon or HomeKit or Control4. I don’t know about other controllers. I can’t imagine Yale or Schlage would even manufacture Zwave locks if this were a common problem.
You guys are saying local processing was working last night…
Are triggered smartlights app bulbs not locally processed? I have 3 door sensors triggering smart bulbs and it was ALL down for me yesterday. This is using the build in smartlighting app simple, concise. On when hinge is open, off when closed.
Depends on the exact details.
If these were bulbs attached to the Hue bridge, they do not run locally.
If they are connected directly to the smartthings hub and use an official device type handler, they may. Same for the motion sensors.
You can see which devices are eligible to run locally on your own account:
Well, that’s less good. That will make me rethink how to have a backup system for door locks. Thanks for the reply.
And Local processing of things is the primary reason I am very seriously considering migrating from my V1 hub to a V2 hub even though it would be a moderate amount of work for me with as many devices as I have in my house…
since right now I have no local devices… since I’m using a V1 hub.
Right now local processing is limited to devices using official device type handlers (and not all of those) and eligible code is limited to the official smart lighting feature and a little bit of SHM.
And the mobile app is only able to talk to the hub if SmartThings cloud is available. (Technically it would be possible to do it via LAN, but that’s just not how the smartthings architecture works.)
They’ve said they’d like to do more, but no specific timeline.
Understood… but most of my devices are using official device type handlers (although I have a few here and there that are not) and I have most of my lighting automation being taken care of using the smart lighting app…
As such it would go a ways… also I have at least one d-link camera that I could connect with SmartThings but requires me to make the jump to a V2 Hub. (I already own a hub I just need to plug it in and migrate).
I have week off in July that I can take a few days to make the switch… I’ve been reading/following the V2 migration best practices thread and I do have a Minimote which should help smooth the transition.