U.K. is 240v, right?
Quick math says 12a produces a max of 2880 watts.
If there was a 3000 watt load, the plug was maxed out. Of course it started to melt.
Even if the max is 13 amps, that’s right up against the limit. Gear is not really designed to run at max load on a constant basis.
Check upthread, the OP shows the label from the device which was max 2000 W. Well within the spec’d range for either 12 or 13 amps on a UK circuit, although again, the issue may be either surge or fit.
Should’ve seen one of my Iris Smart Plugs… I wanted to unplug it, so I cupped it in my hand, tips of fingers as much squeezed in between it and the wall to get a grip. It eventually came out of the plug, but in two pieces. Top cover came off, exposing the electronics and having me electrocuted (finger tips touched the now exposed power prongs). I am used to getting electrocuted, I guess, and the 110V in the US is nothing compared to the smoke I’ve seen in Europe lol. 220V is fun, 110V tickles 
If I remember correctly, voltages below 63V are generally safe to touch (no wet hands though) - it’s really the amperage that surges through the heart that matters thank science
Ahhhh… seems I need to go back to reading comprehension school or something. Yeah, 2000 watts is clearly not out of range for 230v, 12a.
That said: I considered, and rejected, putting a ceramic heater on a smartplug. The device’s own thermostat is quite effective at automating its operation.
I have several of these outlets, a couple of which have been replaced by PC world. I still have one where a heater is plugged into an ancient multi-socket that has no pin shrouds, and this is plugged into the ST outlet. Unsightly, but it works…
That’s the key thing @7andy, unshrounded pins usually work OK.
The contacts in the outlet aren’t set back far enough, so with shrouded pins then only make a partial contact.
The other way to make them work is to ease the plug out slightly, although that’s not something I’d recommend!
I think the question is more concerned with how many watts the lamp is using. 2000W (2kW) seems like a lot for a light fixture. Chandeliers with multiple bulbs use lower wattage bulbs in my experience so the total isn’t excessive. Typically appliances that use that much power would contain motors/pumps or heating elements, or maybe a stage spotlight.
My daughter has a chandelier in her room too 
it has 40W bulb though.
There is the possibility, specifications aside the receptacle on the plug was just mechanically bad. A receptacle that does not have a tight mechanical grip on the device is prone to heating under load. This in my opinion is what happened here. It could be a manufacturing defect, or the outlet could have failed from use, hard to tell at this point. I don’t believe these are inherently dangerous just because of one incident.
Agree it would be quite a stretch at this point to compare this to samsung’s exploding phones and washers. @Lemango how long did it take ST support to get back to you?
It’s not just one incident though, is it? See the links I posted above.
I had one of these outlets fail on me.
It stopped turning on a light.
When I looked at it, if you pulled out the light plug i had plugged into it by just a couple of mm it would work.
Raised a ticket with ST and sent them a video showing them the situation.
They agreed to replace it free of charge under warranty.
Would I trust these, definately but not with high current devices.
Yeah I thought about putting a space heater on a smart outlet (in the US) and then decided not to. Would have been convenient but just not worth testing the limits of the smart plug (with potentially catastrophic consequences if it does fail).
The simple answer (rather than recalling loads of devices) would be for Samsung to produce a self-adhesive spacer which would be applied to the front of the outlet and which is maybe 3 or 4 mm thick. This would stop sleeved pin plugs being inserted to the point where contact is either lost or badly made.
But of course, that would mean them admitting that there’s a problem in the first place…
I’m pretty sure the problem only affects the UK outlets.
100% this. I returned mine as it was incredibly loose connection between the 2. replacement was fine, but I dont think this is the last time we will be seeing this unless there is a recall
Bummer. Hope they sort out the underlying cause.
If that addresses the problem then, yeah, that’d certainly be cheaper than sending out free batteries to replace the ones that were corroded by the hub glitch.
It happened more or less just after I created this post. All sorted now. They are replacing the plug.
That looks like poor connection leading to high resistance. As the resistance and the voltage remaina the same the current goes up, heat created, burning.
However - there’s a few mentions of it being an issue with Sleeved pins on the plug. Not so! Neutral and Live (the lower pins) should ALWAYS be sleeved, any plug without these does not conform to British Standards and is potentially lethal. Earth pins should never be sleeved, same BS applies.
The reason is, the earth pin is safe to touch… In fact if you were to curl your hand around the plug as you’re inserting it, contact with the earth will keep you safe. The length of the plastic sleeve on the other pins is designed so you cannot touch bare metal once they’re connected, if the sleeving was missing and you had your fingers around the plug you could contact mains voltages.
Best guess is either the ST Outlet had a poor connection, or that heater plug has out of spec or bent prongs. Either would do that damage.
It IS so. There are plenty of older plugs (and multi-way adaptors) around that don’t have sleeved pins, and they are just fine with the device. The problem is that the internal connection is just at the point where the sleeve usually starts, and so a poor/partial connection is made.