Outlet Max Power Consumption

I see that the max load is listed as 480w. I am wanting to use one for my window air conditioner, and one for my desktop PC. Both of which pass that under load. What happens in that case? Does the outlet turn off, burst into flames, notify the NSA?


Some outlets have an internal fuse which is tuned to trigger if there is load of any significant duration over the rated wattage (though I presume there might be some margin allowed … probably 500w). Unfortunately, this type of fuse is seldom user replaceable.

I’ve had a certain brand of Z-Wave outlet fail completely (and didn’t see a blown fuse after taking it apart), when using it with an garden lighting (12v AC) converter that unfortunately seems to “surge” briefly, even though the total wattage is ~100w; since all the lights are now LEDs, not the original halogen.

There is, indeed, some risk of fire or meltdown if the switch doesn’t have a fuse to prevent overheating. I doubt any outlet will use the load monitoring “firmware” to detect the overload and shutdown.

TL;DR – The most likely outcome of extended use at over-wattage and/or power surges is permanent outlet failure. There is some small possibility of fire.

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Aeon has 1500 W switches

GE has nice switches as well, not sure what they are rated at without looking though…I would guess in the same range.

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There are a number of “heavy duty” appliance modules, most rated at 15 amps. See if those match your device specs.

Don’t use the 12 amp plug if that’s not rated high enough to carry the needed current for your devices, there is a real danger of fire.

Here are some alternatives:

The GE 12719 is rated for 15 amps, but check the specs on any model you’re considering, as they make several devices that look very similar but have different specs.


The DragonTech appliance module is rated for 15 A, uses zwave plus which gives it longer communication range then older zwave, and may be the least expensive at about $28, but note that it does not have a second pass through outlet which some of the others do.

There are more as well, these are just some examples.

If by chance your air-conditioner requires 20 A, there are solutions for that as well but only ones that require wiring into the circuit or replacing the in wall receptacle, nothing that just plugs in. 20 amp receptacles have the T shape socket.


There are also some micros which can get wired into a circuit and control up to 40 amps.

So you will have choices, but always make sure that the network device you’re using is rated for power at least as high as the device you’re going to connect to it. :sunglasses:


I ended up going with the Leviton DZPA1 and I’m a tad confused by the instructions. Do I seriously have to call them to get it setup with my wifi network? I do not have a wink hub, just a hue bridge, smartthings hub, and harmony hub.

Thank you all for the help, much appreciated!

No, it doesn’t go with a Wi-Fi network at all. You’re just going to add it to the smart things hub as a Z wave device. Those instructions were only for if you were using the Leviton controller instead of SmartThings. Here are the instructions for adding it to smartthings: