The only option I can think of is a electromagnetic lock or door strike. Has anyone implemented any of those with SmartThing’s
Yeah, now that I look at that again that’s very true. Oh well.
you could put a standard zwave like the quick set 910 and break off the plastic piece and not install the inner crank…
but for safety reasons… ie fire exit. that is not a good idea and why companies no longer sell double deadbolts… kind of a pain. as I already have a double deadbolt key access on deck door. and it is not really a safety issue as we have other doors for escape…
But is the inner portion weather resistant?
There is this mod.
Double cylinder locks are common in Australia and South America. But not usually allowed under US fire codes.
Try this thread, and if you do contact Assa Abloy, let us know what you find out:
Sent Assa Abloy an email will let you know if they respond
Assa Abloy doesn’t have it.
I reached out to some companies with electromagnetic locks. Hopefully I can use a Z-Wave relay for intergraions? Any recommendations? I have the Evolve Relay on my Garage Doors, can I use that with electromagnetic locks or do you recommend another brand?
Well, they do have it in Australia, I linked to their brochure in the other topic. But of course that doesn’t mean it’s available anywhere else.
I have. I used this to power this which in turns drives two of these. I attached the deadbolts/strikes using a rectangle aluminum profile to the side of the inside panel of my double patio sliding door, one all the way up and one all the way down. Drilled holes into the outside panel for the bolts to go in. The two sliding panels interlock when power is removed, effectively locking both doors at the same time. Modified the Aeon Outlet code to make it a Lock instead of a Switch (reversing on / off in the process, as I wanted the deadbolts to be locked when no power and unlocked under power). Works like a charm. Since both devices are UL listed, I enclosed them into a 3-gang box inside the wall immediately to the right of the outside panel, bought a 2.4A coiled car charger from BestBuy and used the coiled cable to connect the lower deadbolt to the 3-gang box, through the door threshold. The cable then connects to the LED driver, LED driver to the output of the z-wave microswitch, the microswitch hard wired to 110V. Doors now lock automatically at night and when I am away and unlock when I come home, independent of the sliding door’s lock located in the handle.
This is the lower strike during tests. The deadbolt pushes outwards into the outside panel - door is cracked open in this picture, so the deadbolt is retracted.
This is the final “hiding place” for the power supply and zwave switch. There is now a push button in the middle blank panel that allows for manual lock/unlock when SmartThings isn’t working (lol right?). You can see the coiled cable relaxing down there. I never use the outside panel of the door so that cable doesn’t bother at all. I drew power from the power outlet to the right of the newly installed box. The plug on the left is there to cover the 3-gang required to fit all parts in. It is wired and works, though I’ll probably never use it. The plug on the right has a green light that comes one when the door is unlocked. The outlet is only powered while the door is unlocked - good for a lamp or something that will turn off when you lock the door
Of course, your application is outside and you could use a nice weatherproof box hidden somewhere to provide 12V to the lock. And you won’t be needing the $29.99 coiled cable, err car charger. let me know if you need help, I can assist you with getting SmartThings to work your lock Also, please note that you will need to choose whether you want the lock to be normally open or normally closed. They call it fail-safe (door opens when no power) vs fail-secure (door locks when no power).
And here’s the code I am using to lock/unlock the whole thing:
I just ordered these components and want to try this myself. Would you be willing to provide a little advice if I get hung up? Thanks, Chad
Did it work out for you?
Sorry, just saw your message. Sure, did it work out?
No worries. I’m pretty mechanically inclined. Did mine a little different with the same components. Added an Aeon touch wall switch for manual operation also. Really happy with how it turned out. I’ll post my install on the thread.
Thanks for the reply!
So I used the same 12v bolt lock, 12-24v Led driver, and aeon labs micro switch. I chose to use an Aeon labs touch switch for my manual operation. I used a multi tool and chisel to create a pocket for the bolt in the header above the door. Routed the wire over to a new plastic remodel box (all components barely fit in a large single gand), and pulled power for the driver from a nearby outlet. Was a little more work than I anticipated but happy with the results. The hardest part was fitting the sliding door with the striker plate, but after a few adjustments it worked perfectly. Works like a charm on ST. The touch switch is great for the kids. I also have it connected with an Aeon key fob. My favorite integration to date! Only regret is not routing this to a UPS in case of power failure. (Unlocks on power outage) I may add this later.
I used security locks (lock on power loss) while @Chad_Theman used safety locks (unlock on power loss). I modified the DTH to be lock type aware. Just change the lock type in the settings to switch between security and safety modes.
I plan on completing this install, it would be great if you can explain the wiring (a video would be perfect) also how does the locking mechanism work? And how will I be able to install it on my gate?
I plan on purchasing the Ring Elite Video Doorbell when it is available. I will run two cat 6 from the adjacent room, one for the doorbell and the other for this lock. I am confused on how the wiring will work but I will order the three components and see what happens.