I currently use LightwaveRF for my lights and the switches work fine but the software is just so bad. I also have Rako in my cinema room. But I am looking for a better solution for lighting and some sockets throughout the house and I keep coming back to ST. My only issue is I have a number of ceiling and wall lights that use halogen g4 g9 bulbs. Is there a way of doing this. That is why I went with LWRF as it just meant swapping the switches out.
Any help would be much appreciated…
Have you checked the GE z-wave switches to see if they can handle the wattage of the halogens? Are they regular on/off or dimmers?
I’m assuming the poster is in the UK since they mention lightwave RF and Rako, both brands that are common there but not available in the US.
For GE zwave switches, the reverse is true: available in the US, but not in the UK.
@John_Crighton might know more, but I think you could use the Fibaro in wall module. It is a “universal” dimmer and can handle halogen lamps.
You might find the UK lighting FAQ of interest as well:
Yes that’s correct I am in the UK. I was thinking of using Figaro. I think being able to dim the lights would be nice but not a dream breaker.
Knowing the wattage would help. Also, a neutral at the switch is helpful but not essential (I don’t have any, and halogens have always worked perfectly. LEDs also work, but can be harder to get right).
In the Kitchen I have a triple switch and one switch operates 2 ceiling lights. 1 has 10 x 10w and a larger one with 20 x 10w. The other 2 switches should be fine as they are ceiling downlighters and will be replaced with Megaman Versofit LED which I would have thought would work. I also have one on eof the landing switches 1 ceiling light with 6 x 28w G9’s and 2 wall lights each with 2 x 28w G9’s.
thanks
Peter
Thansk for the article that explains it very well… Why cant these things be more straightforward!!
All sound like pretty good candidates for the Fibaro Dimmer 2. The Megamans might need Bypass 2s depending on the draw.
so basically if I swap all my LightwaveRF kit out for Fibaro dimmers and their hub SmartThings will work with this seamlessly. Its such a shame I have to replace all the switches but I guess Ihave to bite the bullet and spend more money… As I will have to replace the switches has anyone come across anything that has a similar look. Or do Irealy have to use rocker switches.
Thanks for all your help guys, I really need to get this right as this will be the 3rd attempt!!
So that would be the lights hopefully covered so what do you guys use for plug sockets, that is one great thing with LightwaveRF. Any ideas?
No need for Fibaro’s hub, ST will talk directly to the modules.
As for light switches, replace them with momentary switches rather than rocker switches. It makes much more sense. You have a variety of styles and manufacturers to choose from. I went for a Schneider Electric screwless chrome switch. This can come in doubles, quadruples, whatever you want really.
A point of note here, is that if you have momentary switches you can use one module to control both the light wired to the socket, and have a second ‘smart’ switch. I have a second switch in my lounge which turns on a smart bulb in a lamp in the corner. No additional wiring needed.
I also have a second switch in the hall which puts the house in night mode with a double click.
As for plug sockets, LWRF is pretty much the only in-socket solution for the UK. Other relays are available, but nothing built into the socket. I’ve heard good and bad things about them, but if you have them already you may as well keep them. You can still control them via IFTTT using ST.
Brilliant - Thanks for all your help John Im sold…
The plug sockets are less of a worry really as I very rarely need to control those remotely, plus I could always add some ST adaptures for lamps.
Thanks again
Peter
One other point - you do need relatively deep back boxes. I have 35mm in most places, 45mm is recommended though. I originally had X10 modules and had a lot of the backboxes drilled out at that point.
Any modern light switch (e.g. in a newbuild) should have a 35mm backbox at the very least. Older houses can have 25mm, which will be a problem.
John have you ever looked at these sockets
http://www.retrotouch.co.uk/touchlightswitchesct.html
I really like the LED on the LightwaveRF switches and these look very smart. Im guessing as these are touch they would work fine with Fibaro.
thanks
Yes, they look very smart. As long as they can make/break a connection then they’ll work with the Fibaro.
However, for me at least, most visitors would stare at them with a blank expression shrouded in darkness and wonder what they were and where the light switch was!
My solution was a momentary switch that looked like nice toggle switch. Only in pressing the switch can you tell the difference.
Does LightWave not work with ST? I emailed them and they said: Samsung have been given the full Fibaro system to test and calibrate. Unfortunately you will need to contact Samsung Support to find out the exact integration details.
There is no direct integration with lightwave RF at this time. There are some community members who have created a workaround, but it will require having an additional device to act as a server, typically a raspberry pi, and does require some technical knowledge.