Before I get into detials around my lack of electrical knowledge, a question. Can a 3-way circuit be wired up with two (2) of the Leviton DZ15S switches? Opposed to one of the DZ15S and a remote switch (DD0SR-DL or DD0SR-10).
My Home Depot has the DZ15S but not the other ones in stock.
Thanks,
–Jamie
I would ask Leviton support. Some masters can be set up as direct auxiliaries and some cannot, it just depends on the exact details of that specific model.
http://www.leviton.com/en/products/DZS15-1LZ
You could always set up a virtual three-way where each master talks to the SmartThings hub and relays messages between them, but if your wiring already has traveler wires in place, there are some advantages to using them, including slightly less lag.
So again, I would start by asking Leviton, they should know for sure. They list their support phone number in the user guide for each device. I don’t know if they work on the weekends, though.
Yea, can certainly do that. However, I’m trying to get this done this weekend, and Leviton will not be getting back to me before Monday for sure. If that is the case, I’ll probably just end up ordering some of the add-on switches from Amazon.
–Jamie
Well, since I’m going to have to ask no matter what I use as the other switch, I need help with the wiring on the 3-way. My setup is attached, with a drawing and two pictures corresponding to the boxes. The Leviton instructions don’t match my setup, and I hated electrical engineering classes, so yea. Any ideas how to make this setup work?
Note: The black wire configuration in the drawing is different than what the pictures show. The electrician is using one of the screws on single-pole switch as the wirenut.
@jhamstead can confirm, but since they use physical traveler wires, I believe the Leviton switches are wired in a manner similar to the GE switches:
Uhh, holy crap, great post. Thanks JD. This forum software is…not ideal.
–Jamie
If you mean the forum search sucks, why, yes. Yes, it does. 
In most other regards, however, the forum software is pretty good.
@royalj7, You’ve got the help of @JDRoberts. Far better than any search.
Looks like you have line-switch-load-switch-1. Should be fairly straightforward to wire up. That is assuming you can use two master switches. Just do not use the “load” of the auxillary switch and also bring line over.
If that doesn’t work, then you’ll need to set them up individually and have SmartThings make a virtual 3-way. In that case also do not connect traveler.
Looks like you’re having the same problem I was having when trying to install the exact same Leviton switch. You don’t have a neutral, which is required by this model switch. In my short amount of research to solve this problem, I found switches that can work without a neutral in the switch box, but you can’t run LED’s with them, which is high on my list of wants. So i’m running to new wiring to the switch boxes to give myself the neutral these switches need.
I think this might be why it doesn’t match up to the drawings in the Leviton instructions.
Hope this helps…
Bryan
Looking at his diagram he does have neutral. It comes in with the line wire.
So, I ended up getting one of the add-on switches (DD0SR-DLZ) and wiring it up per @jhamstead’s thread. No joy. The Leviton switches have the terminals in different locations, in addition to having different labels, so that puts me back in the position of interpreting the circuit diagram, which, well, got me in this position to start with…
Below is a picture of what the Leviton switches look like from the back. Any ideas how to hook this up with the line-switch-load-switch-1 configuration?
Thanks,
–Jamie
The setup should be the same as the GE switches except where you plug them into the switches. White to white neutral, black to line, RD to load and YL/RD to red traveler.
I’m at work so I don’t have the time to study all the diagrams but, from a quick look, your wiring looks like what I just did last night. Hopefully, this is helpful and not just a wasted read.
I wired in one of the old model switches (DZS15) along with the associated remote but I’m pretty sure the wiring is the same. In my case, the line and load were located in the same box and the electrician used a 14-3 cable to run to the remote. In the 14-3, he used black to pass hot and the white and red as the two travelers. This left me with no useful neutral in the remote box.
After studying the diagram for a bit, I realized that one of the travelers is actually just passing a constant hot back from the remote in box two to the switch in box one. With that in mind, I ended up rewiring the 14-3 so that I had black as hot, white as neutral, and red as the single traveler. So, on the remote end, I put white into WH, black into BL, and red into YL/RD. On the switch side, I put white into WH, black into RD, red into YL/RD, and connected a new black wire from the hot wire nut bundle into BL. Without looking at the install instructions, it’s possible I’m switching where the 2 black wires went on the switch but, basically, I put a new hot wire where traveler 2 would have plugged in.
Hope that helps!
