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3-way Switch Wiring Leviton DZ15S & DD0SR-1Z Help Pls


(Ronin ) #1

Hello fellas,

I have 2 of the 3-way switches that are next to each other; one to control the hallway and one to control the stairs’ light. I’ve been trying to replace with the ST Leviton switches, but I am able to replace one of them without any issue. I spent the last several days reading all the threads on here, and watching the youtube videos but i can’t seem to be able to figure the other/last one.

current_switch_1 - the left one is the one i cannot figure it out… yet.

The hot/line black wire is from the 2-wire cable. The red wire and the white wire is from the 3-wire Romex. The black wire is nutted all together with other black wires and so are the white wires and the ground wires. the other/remote switch is lighted so maybe that is why it’s all nutted together instead of being a load.

current_switch_2 - the other (remote switch)

The 3 wires, black, read, and white is from the other side of the 3-wire romex.

Here’s what i tried

new_switch_1. Note, the picture below shows the last configurations i attempted below
note: will have to add an image in another post.

Attempt 1: line black is connected to BL. white wire connected to WH. green wire to Ground. red wire to RD. I note there no green LED on the switch.

Attempt 2: line black is connected to BL. I unwinded the black wire from the black pigtail and connected to YL/RD. white wire connected to WH. green wire to Ground. red wire to RD. I note there no green LED on the switch. still no green LED on the switch.

Attempt 3: Remove & capped the original black wire and pigtail a new blackwire to the BL. the black wire is still connected to YL/RD, the white is to WH, the green to Ground and red to RD. There is a green LED on the main switch. AND i can “turn” on/off from either the main switch or the remote. The light doesn’t actually go on/off, but i can hear the click and see the LED on the main switch goes on/off.

Attempt 3: Remove & capped the original line black wire and pigtail a new blackwire to the BL. the other black wire (1st traveler) is still connected to YL/RD, the white is to WH, the green to Ground and red to RD. There is a green LED on the main switch. AND i can “turn” on/off from either the main switch or the remote. The light doesn’t actually go on/off, but i can hear the click and see the LED on the main switch goes on/off.

Attempt 4: I add back the original line black wire and pigtail a new blackwire to the BL, so BL has 2 black wires; one from the line wire and the new one from the pigtail. the other black wire (1st traveler) i is still connected to YL/RD, the white is to WH, the green to Ground and red to RD. There isstill a green LED on the main switch. AND the fixture lights are on, but I cannot turn on or off with the main switch or remote switch… I cannot turn on/off either from either the main switch or the remote. I don’t hear the click or see the LED goes off.

Attempt 5: BL still have the new black wire i pigtailed, but I moved the original line black wire to YL/RD, so YL/RD has 2 black wires; one from the line wire and the the one from the romex (1st traveler), the white is to WH, the green to Ground and red to RD. There isstill a green LED on the main switch. AND the fixture lights are on, but I cannot turn on or off with the main switch or remote switch… I cannot turn on/off either from either the main switch or the remote. I don’t hear the click or see the LED goes off.

new_switch_2/remote, I’m matching up to the remote of the other 3-way switch.

Attempt 1: The black wire (1st traveler/load) is connected to the YL/RD. The white wire is connected to WH. The green wire is connect to the Ground. The red wire is connected to the RD.

Attempt 2: The black wire (1st traveler/load) is connected to the YL/RD. The white wire is connected to WH. The green wire is connect to the Ground. The red wire is capped and not connected.

I looked at this thread 3-Way Switch Wiring Leviton DZ15S-1BZ & DD0SR-DLZ and feels this is similar to my setup but haven’t not able to figure how to “rewire” but this maybe my fix ?

So here is my plan. I attached more pictures of the instructions below for reference. Please let me know what you guys think. In the main switch box with hot goes the new main switch. Line (1) goes to BK terminal, neutral (2) goes to WH terminal, ground (3) goes to green/ground terminal, first traveler (4) is supposed to connect to RD terminal and then run to remote switch box and pigtail to load line out to fixture. But since the load line out to the fixture in my situation is already in the main switch box (coming back from the remote switch) I’ll undo that pigtail and attach the load line out to the fixture directly to the RD terminal. Second traveler (5) to terminal marked YL/RD. For the remote switch load (1) and first traveler (4) have been addressed in the main switch box and are now obsolete in the remote box. Neutral (2) will be the old load line and will pigtail into my bundle of neutrals in the main switch box. Ground (3) goes to green/ground terminal. Second traveler (5) to terminal marked YL/RD.

I felt defeated temporarily and put the old switches back (not to mention the electric has been out for the hallway/stairs/bathroom while i tinker). I also have GE Z-Wave Plus and I know i need the GE remote but if it’s easier to use the GE, i can return the leviton remote and get a GE one.

Many thanks in advance.


(Bryan) #2

Based upon your description that seems to indicate power is coming into the circuit via the switch in the two-gang box and and by looking at the wiring to the other switch, it seems like your configuration is power to the IMG-1441 switch with the 3-wire then routed to the light and then to the IMG-1439 switch via another 3-wire.

If that is the case, then you don’t have a neutral in the box with the IMG-1439 switch. That is causing your issue.

One possible solution is to use the GE switch instead. Although I have not personally had to resort to this configuration, I understand that the GE 3-way switches do not require both traveler wires in the 3-wire to be connected to the add-on switch. When configured properly, this leaves one wire that can be “stolen” and converted to route a neutral to the IMG-1439 switch.

Search these forums for solutions provided by @RitchieRich, who seems to have made a second career out of describing this technique to people missing a neutral in the auxiliary box.


(Michael) #3

:joy:

Your situation is pretty much the same as I described here earlier today:

In order for a 3 way to work you have to have line from breaker one one switch and the load on the other. These are hooked up to the common terminal which is black in your case. You have both line and load in your switch 1 box, load is the black screw on that switch. You noticed that the 14-3 wire’s black wire was bundled with a bunch of black wires, this is line being sent to switch 2.

I am not familiar with the Leviton switches so hopefully I got everything correct.

Switch 1 box:

  • the black wire that is currently hooked up to the black screw on your dumb switch in a 14-2 Romex is your load. Hook this up to the RD terminal on the master switch.
  • add a pigtail to the black bundle of wires that you describe the black 14-3 wire is currently bundled in, then hook this up to the BK terminal on your master switch.
  • the red wire from this same Romex will be the traveler to the Aux switch so connect that to the YL/RD terminal on the master switch
  • add a white wire pigtail to the neutral bundle and connect it to the WH terminal. Make sure the white wire from the 14-3 Romex that is currently hooked to the dumb switch is also hooked up to the WH terminal so we can “send” neutral to your aux switch

Switch 2 box:

  • hook black wire to the BK terminal on aux switch
  • hook up the red wire to your YL/RD terminal
  • hook up the white wire to your WH terminal

That should do it


(Ronin ) #4

cont…

From this layout @https://www.easy-do-it-yourself-home-improvements.com/3-way-switch-wiring-diagram.html , it appears mine is #9. Here are my current switches and from @[FAQ] GE 3-Way Wiring, mine is probably a line-switch-load-switch-1 or line-switch-load-switch-2

Leviton diagram @ https://ibb.co/yQtg6BV

new_switch_1. https://ibb.co/64VmJkD & https://ibb.co/Ws2SpjC
new_switch_2/remote, https://ibb.co/h2X1xG7


(Michael) #5

Did you try my suggestions above? It should work for you.