@scottalex, not quite that expensive!
I control a solenoid valve ($70) via a MIMOLIte ($60) and it works awesome.
2 Likes
Have you heard any more information on the Soneter product? Wondering if it will be out soon
I keep seeing in this thread that it is believed that these can accept over-the-air updates as well as have consumption monitoring. I do not believe that they can have either.
The only way they could take an update over the air is with their own bridge device. No way to do that via a smartthings hub that I can imagine.
As for consumption monitoring, there is no flowmeter installed. If you look through it, there is nothing but a ball valve. How would it be expected to measure volume without a flow meter?
Here you can see a system that includes a flow meter that attaches to your water meter:
Ah-ha, now I see where this comes from. at CES in 2014 Lowes announced a water shutoff and consumption solution that was based on the valve we all know and love PLUS a separate flow meter that was apparently vaporware. This is the web site of the company that was going to make the usage part of the system: http://www.soneter.com/team.html
From what I have deduced, that web site has never been updated since thenā¦
That company has a bunch of patents and no working product. Looks like they are still in the R&D stage and are burning through VC trying to make a working product since 2010 or soā¦
And here we go, as of June of last year, they are still in the early prototype phase:
http://gtalumnimag.com/2015/06/start-me-up/
1 Like
Any chance youād post a link to or brand/model for the valve? I went to the link, but didnāt see it thereā¦maybe I just got lazy and didnāt read far enough or something.
Also, is this for the house mainline, or just your sprinkler system or something?
If it can handle the mainline, this would be an amazing way to get this done.
A solenoid valve canāt provide the nessesary flow.
For what? For whole house mainline or for anything?
Iām sorryā¦Iām dense.
I purchased mine from the original poster of the thread I posted above. He bought several from here:
http://www.flow-controls.com/2-way-motorized-ball-valve-introduction.html
Specifically:
http://www.flow-controls.com/IP67-on-off-Electric-ball-valve-Model-TOFINE-THA20T.html
This is on my homeās main 1" line. Like I said above - it works perfectly. Technically itās a motorized valve vs a solenoid valveā¦
I agree with @johnconstantelo. I have three valves and two of them are installed and work great and flawless!
@johnconstantelo @zuperman4ever Thanks! 
1 Like
Those are not and should not be called "Solenoid Valves."
Those are motorized ball valves exactly like what the Iris valve is at the heart.
The bad thing about a true solenoid valve is that in this use they would require constant power to stay open. So in a power outage, you would have no water without a battery backup or generator or bypass. I would not use one on the supply line of my house.
They are cheap though: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-110-120-VAC-Water-Air-Fuels-VITON-FKM-STAINLESS-S21V/361431706523
If you look at this article: http://www.chemicalprocessing.com/articles/2003/58/?start=0
I think you will see the point @codytruscott was making about actual solenoid valves is that because of the convoluted flow path in the valve, flow rates and pressure drops are an issue with them.
Additionally, in the USA, any valves installed on your main water line will need to be NSF Lead-Free, and I have to wonder if these cheap valves would pass an inspection and be safe?
As an example, the only lead-free drinking water safe valve on the referenced site is this one:
http://www.flow-controls.com/TOFINE-US-plug-auto-return-closed-drinking-water-food-motorized-valves.html
1 Like
+1 for the leakSMART valve from Loweās. Relatively easy install (Sharkbite connections make plumbing easy anyway) and you do need to manually change the device type from an outlet to a Zigbee valve, but MUCH cheaper than any other āout of the boxā solution (Fortrezz). And, if the device does go haywire, it does have a manual override. Just remove the cap and manually turn the valve on. I skipped adding a bypass for this reason.
**Does anyone know if this device acts as a Zigbee repeater (it is powered)? **
3 Likes
Response from leakSMART regarding the device being a repeaterā¦
Hi Kurt,
Sorry No, it is not a repeater nor can be used as a range extender in a thread/mesh type system application.
Our valve and sensors are only recognized as being end devices.
Best Regards
Keith
Any plumbers here? I did some recon this weekend and found that I have 1/2" CTS PB coming off my water main. Aside from the issues with PB itself (whole nother deal). Iām concerned about the effects of stepping up from 1/2" to 3/4" valve and then back down to 1/2" again. Anyone know of any concerns with that? It looks like Sharkbite has some NPT threaded reducer fittingsā¦
Not a plumber, but I work for a plumbing manufacturer. This should not be an issue. Going the other way (reducing to 1/2 from 3/4) would restrict flow though.
Kurt
2 Likes
I installed the bypass because I can walk my wife trough turning some valves over the phone. I could NOT do that when it comes to taking the Leaksmart valve apart with a screw driver. The cost of the bypass was two Ts, two elbows, and one ball valve. I already had the pipe since I had to buy a minimum length piece anyway. I think it came out to $12
So did you replace your original dumb valve? My plan is just to put my stuff downstream of it. So if the need arises I can just walk my wife, or more likely a guest not at all familiar with our setup, through turning the original dumb valve. I donāt disagree bypass has some value when it comes to maintaining service during any needed maintenance of the Smart Valve but from what I can tell thatās it.
In my November 4 post above, you can see an image of my install:
In the photo, the yellow handled valve is my original dumb valve.
Were I to do it over again, I would have put the top T above the dumb valve and the bottom T below the dumb valve. That way I could have had the smart valve completely removed but still had waterā¦ I am new to this so that is my excuse for not thinking of it that way to begin with. But this will suffice in the event the smart-valve fails in the closed position, or decides to behave in an erratic manner.
Correct me if iām wrong, but wouldnāt the same thing be acheived if you only changed the top t above the dumb valve?
Iām not a plumber, but I would think that the empty cavities to the valves would fill up then pressure would be normal if just the top were closed and the middle opened, Itās not as Neat as gregās install in post 95, or COMikeās in 82 , but from what I can tell the bottom valve isnāt ānecessaryā it just looks cleaner.
I would think this would be the Minimum to change flow in the event of a device failure. you could bypass the smart valve by just changing these two valves. The normally shut could be closer to the bottom to get the symmetry closer in my crappy drawing =P
1 Like
Here is what I was thinking:
As you can see, this would allow completely removing the Leaksmart valve assembly for service while allowing water flow to the house.
2 Likes
@schapper05 is correct, but @CheezWiz has the right idea with regards to a traditional plumbing bypass. Typically you see this type of set-up on water softeners or other treatment systems where service may be required more frequently (or where you want to simply bypass the treatment of the water for some reason).