Idea for a Garage Door project need input

OK my idea is basically very simple:

  1. Create a Virtual Momentary Switch (Not sure if possible will do research)
  2. Find a Z-Wave or Zigbee momentary relay (Not sure if Aeon relay handles momentary)

Now once I have the two use it for a on the cheap garage door control. I already have the two garage sensors on the doors which are Z-wave. I will also need help with an app to control it. But I guess since I already see position of the door, Open/Close all I need is the virtual button and no app. Any ideas and parts suggestions would be welcome.

I’ve kind of got this in place at the moment. (kind of).

I have a zigbee relay that provides a dry contact to activate my roller door. The roller door has safety features built in to it so I only have a sensor at bottom to tell me if its open or closed. My garage door then just states “Move” and I use a couple of rules to determine it’s open already when I return and my presence is detected.

Historically I’d modified the DTH for the relay to carry out a momentary press by replacing:

this:

def on() {
    zigbee.on()
}

with this:

def on() {
	delayBetween([
	zigbee.on(),
	zigbee.off()
	], 10)
}

That worked fine for a while. Then there was a change at the back end that resulted in the delay being to much for my garage door and resulted in the door opening about an inch and then halting (all because the momentary press wasn’t short enough). I was basically asking for it to turn on, wait for 10ms and then turn off, it worked fine until the change but then it stopped working. See here for more information on that:

https://community.smartthings.com/t/delaybetween-cmds-timeinms-does-not-work?source_topic_id=76345

To get around that I just added a CoRE piston that looks for the relay being turned on and then turns it off immediately. That works fine. Dirty fix I know but it works!

Hope that helps???

I have this setup:

If I would do it all over again, I would buy a “real” garage door opener. The price is almost the same and it’s way less hassle.

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OK, But could you please give me the CoRe instructions so I can duplicate it? Thanks.

Here is the setup for the door opening and closing by turning on the relay.

I still need to set up the rule to sync the virtual door with the the real door if it is opens manually.

Please do me a favor when you figure out the link for CoRe send me the steps for CoRE or post it here. I prefer a text as I haven’t been getting emails when a thread has changed. I have it set for watching, but no email is sent.

What’s your definition of cheap? Depending on any sales online or in store, the GoControl garage door device could be affordable, maybe even using a Mimolite with a wired magnet sensor.

Personally? I’d go with the GoControl because it’s all integrated together (tilt sensors and opener), and it works out of the box with ST with no custom SmartApp to worry about. That all equals to fewer headaches when ST has platform issues.

I use Mimolite devices with a wired sensor, but I’ve been experiencing connectivity issues with the Mimolite lately that I think may be related to the age of the device and old firmware (it’s been there for over 2 years now).

I have been looking over my options, not sure which way to go. I have two doors to do. So Iguess when I decide to do it it will be which is available for the best price, but if it is a few bucks different I will go with the GoControl.

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John would you please provide how you set this up?

  1. If you use a wired sensor can a a Z-Wave sensor be used as I have two installed.?
  2. How did you set up a switch, did you use a virtual Momentary?
  3. If you used CoRe would you post your Piston?
    Thanks.

Sure! It’s based on this diagram:

https://cdn.discourse.org/smartthings/uploads/default/original/2X/1/1f616c312f9773a28f288d122c216e9e4251e102.jpg

My wired magnetic door sensor is installed at the top of the door vs. where the one is mounted in the diagram.

No a zwave sensor can’t be used because of how the Mimolite needs to be wired up, and since the control of the opener and open/close status is all done in a DH (not anything virtual with service manager smartapp), it needs to be wired.

It’s a momentary switch, and certainly not virtual. I wrote the DH for it, and here’s what it looks like:

Here’s an old (but active) discussion about this device, including the new MIMO2+ (for 2 garage doors!):

https://global.discourse-cdn.com/smartthings/original/3X/9/c/9cabc3c7a1f5e48f5c979082fb90b5e08bb99c7f.PNG

Mimolite for garage door and magnetic door contact - #111[quote=“joelw135, post:9, topic:76345”]
If you used CoRe would you post your Piston?
[/quote]

I don’t CoRE for any of this, just plain old ST and native SmartApps to auto close the door after a certain time and after no motion detected.

Thanks for the info. is the device handler available and Smartapp available on Github? I want to keep both doors separate.

Anytime. The DH is in my repo, so if you have Github integrated it’s super easy. The SmartApp is just ST’s own Smart Lighting. Since it’s seen as a switch, Smart Lighting is set up to turn it off after 20 minutes of no motion.

If you don’t mind tinkering a bit, I have less than $10 invested in controlling both of my garage doors (not including tilt sensors.)

I’m using a Sonoff device which is wifi controlled. It’s designed to be used as a standard wifi enabled switch. But with some hackery it can be made into a dry contact controller using it’s relay. It was surprisingly easy.

I use a simulated button and in core I have it set up to “flash” the sonoff switch once for 500ms when the simulated button is pressed. Using the simulated garage door opener may work better but I haven’t tried yet.

For ~$4.65 a pop these things are great for this and as a smart switch in the home. I can go into more detail if you’d like

Sounds very interesting, but one road block. I only have Mac computers. So can I update the firmware using a Mac? If yes are all the details on that link including the CoRe setup? Also these don’t look like they are USA plugs.

These get wired into an appliance cord or extension cord. So the “plug” is universal. For the dry contact application that would be used here you would wire the plug end of an extension cord into the input to supply.it with power (or use a 3.3v power supply into the programming pins) then wire the bell wire for the garage door opener into the output end. In order for tnhis to work after its flashed, you will need to do some work to the PCB but it’s really easy if you can solder. It’s just adding a jumper wire. If you need better pictures or directions I can try to help you out.

As far as your Mac I’m not sure. I don’t see why it would be an issue but if you ask on the Sonoff thread someone may be able to answer that.
For the core setup I can help with that when you get there it’s simply
If
garage door button (simulated) is pushed
Then
Flash Sonoff switch (actual Sonoff device) on for 500 Ms then off 1 time
(I also have a wait action at the end of this of 2 seconds and then turn off just to insure the contacts are open before next use)

IMO, you should go for an actual garage door controller. They are UL listed and have security features included. Being that it is a door to the outside of the house, I wouldn’t put a DIY project on one of mine.
Again, my opinion.

The dual Mimo is perfect for a 2 car garage with separate doors… just add some magnetic switches (hard wired) and it’s all done in one unit. Seems purpose built for this application with the benifit of being able to use it for anything else if for some reason you change your mind or upgrade openers that have this built in later. Also you can control 2 doors for under 100$ and it doesn’t require any hackery.

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Yes it is an option for sure. I just have to decide which way to go.

I was concerned about this as well but since my garage is detached from my home, it isn’t an external door for me. So I have my contact and tilt sensors set up to an alarm out there to go off when opened unexpectedly. Maybe a slight risk factor to my belongings, but not my family.

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With the MIMO2+ it’s $50/door, which is a pretty darn good bang for the buck.