What it means: No LAN connection, Hub doesn’t have an IP address
What to do: This is likely an internet connection issue. If your Hub is connected via Wi-Fi, try changing the Wi-Fi network or connect the Hub directly to the router via Ethernet. Make sure your Ethernet cable is securely plugged into the back of the Hub and not loose. If the Ethernet cable is snug but the blue light keeps blinking, the cable may be defective. Swap it for another shielded model. This may also be caused by strict network security settings preventing the Hub from connecting.
Blue (solid)
What it means: Attempting connection to the SmartThings cloud/servers
What to do: A solid blue light is expected during the normal setup process and when downloading firmware updates (in some cases). However, if the light remains solid blue for longer than 5 minutes, this indicates the Hub is unable to establish a connection with our servers. This problem can occur when outbound traffic from a local network is being blocked. Double-check your network settings and make sure the following ports are open during initial setup: 11111, 9443, 443, 39500, and 37
You may want to try a different ethernet cable or plugging it into a different port on your switch or router.
Unfortunately 2 old GE Z-wave devices (outlet and a switch) went to perma-offline zwSwitchStatusLockout status a few hours before the hub update. Seems fixed with power cycle.
Partly. Through some testing I have discovered that the update to the app for dimmers on/off state is now so fast it does not initially display the actual final dimmer level the physical device ramps up to. For example, dimmer is off and set to 30%. It will show off in the app and 30%. Turn it on manually and the app will show ‘on’ very quickly and the level will show some low level like 3 or 4% until the switch is polled again by the hub which could be a minute later. Then the app shows the actual level. The app is initially getting the dimmer level before the device has finished ramping up.
Prior to this update and before the prior FW changed things a dimmer device would not show on or off until the device had finished ramping up or was completely off. At that point the correct final dimming state would be pulled at the time the app changed to on or off.
Unfortunately, we will have the separate out this topic into another thread and communicate any updates related to this particular issue via that thread. As described this issue will be resolved by Cloud changes as opposed to a hub firmware changes
Hey thanks for the info! It helped track down the problem which was just an untimely failure of the Google Wifi AP it was plugged into. It was powered on but could no longer reach the base station reliably. Got it moved to another place in the house and it’s back online.
Since the update, ALL of my zWave devices go offline after a few hours of the hub being online. Rebooting the hub brings all zWave devices back, however they go away again in a few hours. Thoughts?
RBoy
(www.rboyapps.com - Making SmartThings Easy!)
49
When you say they go offline, do you mean that you can no longer control them (using the Classic app) or do they just show up as offline but you can still control them using the Classic app?
If you can still control them using the Classic app try turning off device health from the Classic app.
(I find this odd so to why ST changed the behavior of the new app given that device health still has issues, it may show as offline but let me still try to control the device)
They show up as “Offline” in the my devices tab of graph.api.smartthings.com, and show as offline in the classic app.
Rebooting the zwave device does not bring them back. just rebooting the hub.
RBoy
(www.rboyapps.com - Making SmartThings Easy!)
51
That’s fine, you should check if they still “respond” in the Classic app i.e. you can operate them, on/off, report changes to states etc. If so then turn off device health as that’s may be the root cause. If not then it’s something else and you’ll need to contact ST support.
Since this firmware update multiple devices have gone offline and running a Z-wave Repair only results in errors “Could not delete old routes” and “Could not assign new neighbors”. I’ve never really had any problem with Smartthings until this update and it is quite annoying.
Just to update. It seems that no GE light switches work anymore via smartthings. Running a Z-Wave repair is only met with “could not delete old routes” and “could not update neighbors” for any other devices that are not responding. I’ve tried moving some z-wave plus plugs around the house to hopefully have the z-wave mesh update but it’s not working.
From my point of view it seems like the Z-Wave network/utility is completely busted in the last few days. I’m on the latest firmware (25.00032).
Yup. This happens to me every hour or so, and in blocks of devices, not just one or two. All of these are older GE zwave devices, with the exception of the GE fan controller (pre zwave plus version) In my case, the devices usually come back alive again. Every one or two days I’ll have a device go offline, and to get them back online again I just manually turn it on, trip the airgap switch, and then manually turn it on/off 2 or three times. Every so often I’ll see one of my Aeon G2 micro switches, or an older Leviton dual load/scene controller go offline for no reason.
RBoy
(www.rboyapps.com - Making SmartThings Easy!)
57
I think the older GE switches have a defect in them. Then tend to heat up and stop working. Using the air gap switch or power cycling them the main restores it for a while before. I haven seen this issue with the newer zwave plus models of GE switches. Maybe @Kianoosh_Karami can share his experience.
True, and I’ve thrown a couple away that did that, but to have that happen to 2, 3, or 4 all within a day or two that never had that issue for years, sometime else is up (ironically whenever there’s a firmware release, beta or not).
As @RBoy mentioned, some older GE/Jasco models have a firmware defect that results in the devices failing to respond. The root cause isn’t entirely clear but has to do with network congestion. Things you can try that may or may not resolve the issue include:
Using the air gap switch / power cycling
Removing the devices from the network and re-adding them
Performing a network repair
If the above steps do not resolve the issue, you can also contact Jasco technical support: Contact Us.
