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How to wire in GE Z Wave 3 Way with this wiring?


#1

I have a 3-way switch that I believe is wired similar to the diagram I attached. The second switch in the 3 way pair only has one 14-3 wire and they are all connected to the switch.

What do I use for a neutral on the add-on switch?

How I believe my 3 way is wired. I also have 2 lights in this situation.


#2

See line-switch-load-load-switch


(Michael) #3

Agree with @jhamstead for GE switches but want to add that Zooz makes a switch that doesn’t require aux switches for 3way installs. It just requires that you install the smart switch in the box with line and load but you leave your additional switch as is. This might be a better alternative for you since you won’t need to change any wiring at fixtures or additional switch.


#4

Inovelli makes one similar to the Zooz but for the same price also does dimming. And @Eric_Inovelli is a frequent poster on the forum and committed to SmartThings. So, if you ever have issues, he’s right here.

http://inovelli.com/shop/smart-light-switches/z-wave-dimmer-switch-repeater/


(Jason) #5

Will the Zooz Z-Wave Zen21 work with the setup mentioned by OP? I am in the same boat and was not able to use the GE version with the Add-on.

On the Zooz website they show examples of 3-way connections but none show where both switches are wired through the lights so I question if this switch will work for the wiring shown above.


(Michael) #6

Please confirm Zen21 since you posted the Zen26 wiring diagram. They are different and the 21 uses the neutral as the common on the “dumb” switch. Unfortunately if your wiring has lights between the switches, you don’t have a neutral going to your “dumb” switch without rewiring your fixtures. So it won’t work with your current wiring but if you are willing and can change the fixture wiring you should be able to make them work. You could even get the GE switches working as well with fixture wiring changes.


(Jason) #7

I was hoping to avoid rewiring the fixtures. They consist of 6 recessed lighting fixtures. Thank you for your quick response!


(Michael) #8

You won’t have to reconfigure the wiring in all 6 cans. Assuming your wiring is just like the above picture, you see that in the top 2 Wire cable in the middle of the diagram, the white is basically the traveler for the 3 way wiring. So you have traveler in the secondary switch, you just need neutral. So if you can determine the can light where your second switch 3 way wiring may go to, that is where you need to reconfigure to get neutral to the second switch.


(Jason) #9

I think I understand. So if i’m wired liked the above picture, the reconfigure of the wires at the last can connected to the secondary switch would be to remove the wirenut from the white/black wires and screw the white to the light socket with the existing white wire. Then take the black wire and add it to the existing 3 black wires that are currently in a wirenut?


(Michael) #10

The black wire of your 14-3 (black, white, red) isn’t needed. Assuming the same wires as above the black wire of 14-2 needs to be hooked to your black wire of the fixture since this is load from your master. Then red stays connected to the white wire of the 14-2.