Another 3-way Help Request

[tommymac (Thomas Mac)]

Hi all,

I’ve got another 3-way switch that I’m trying to replace and I thought I would seek advice from the experts before I delve into it. I’ve got the Honeywell Z-wave in-wall switch and an add-on ready to go once I’ve got the wiring figured out.

Here’s Box1 which I have determined to be the “hot” box:

And this is Box 2:

So, of course, any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated, and, if I need to get better pics on the boxes, please let me know.

[HalD (Hal)]

Have a look here

[FAQ] GE 3-Way Wiring

I’ve decided to put this FAQ together to help those with questions about installing GE 3-way switches. Definitions of terms: Line: The hot wire from the breaker (usually black) Neutral: The return wire for circuits (usually white) Load: The wire that will be hot when the circuit is completed to your light (usually black) Traveler: In existing 3-way wiring, this wire toggles hot between two switches. In a smart switch 3-way configuration, a smaller charge is looped through the add-on switch. Some things to know: 3-way wiring for smart switches is different than standard 3 way wiring. You cannot use dumb 3-way switches with most smart switches (You must purchase the matching GE add-on switch to wire with your GE smart master switch). If the line is wired into the light fixture, you …

Looks like you’ve got “light between the switches #2” configuration.

Just an aside: the Zooz ZEN26 switch and ZEN27 dimmer let you smarten a 3-way by only replacing one side. The other side retains the dumb switch and does not need to be required. If you’re doing a dimmer, you don’t gain the ability to dim from both switches, the dumb side remains on/off only. And there are some load limits that need to be watched. But it’s a significant cost savings.

[ritchierich (Michael)]

@HalD

Looks like you’ve got “light between the switches #2” configuration.

Not so sure about that. Looks like the 3 way was added after the fact given 14-3 goes down via track and 2 14-2s go in back of wall for old switch.

Appears that line and load are in that first box. @tommymac remove the wire nuts and use a multimeter to measure the black and white wires. Should read 120V if my suspicion is correct.

[HalD (Hal)]

@ritchierich

Not so sure about that. Looks like the 3 way was added after the fact given 14-3 goes down via track and 2 14-2s go in back of wall for old switch.

Yes, I noticed that the white wire in the 14-3 is actually white while the ones in the 14-2 cables have yellowed with age.

But the diagram I referenced still looks correct. It looks to me like it’s actually “line and load in the same box with added 3-way”

[tommymac (Thomas Mac)]

Your suspicion is correct. 120v when I use the multimeter on the wire-nutted black and white wires.

[ritchierich (Michael)]

@HalD

light between the switches #2

Interesting I hadn’t paid that close attention to the wiring diagram names and when I read “between the switches” I really thought you meant that with 14-3 going to light. I would not agree with that name at all but know I am splitting hairs.

@tommymac

Your suspicion is correct. 120v when I use the multimeter on the wire-nutted black and white wires.

Master will go in that first box then and Aux in second. You good with wiring?

[tommymac (Thomas Mac)]

Yep. This did the trick.

Thanks to you both for your help and advice on this. I was a bit leery on this one and wasn’t sure if I could even pull it off.